TEMPLES OF WONDER
As I have observed, most of the people in India talk about casinos in Sri Lanka, which is becoming fast destination. However, the traditional tourism sites are something a traveler can not miss out.
Most of the temples—whether Buddhist or Hindu are old and some are not even on tourist map. However, the temples leave many questions unanswered over the technology used during that period or even some of the designs, similar to ones in India.
I was second time unlucky not to climb Sigiriya rock. First time, I had a decent view of the beautiful rock from main gate. This time, even that was not possible. All we could do was to have a side view from the main road.
But the case of Rangiri or Cave temple of Dambulla was different as I visited the caves second time also. Though Prasad and Radha aunty declined to climb the rock, Chinnappa wanted to give a try. I assured them that there was no need to climb till top of the rock, but they developed cold feet. I found much easier way to climb and Chinnappa was comfortable with it.
The cave mesmerized me as much it did first time, a decade ago. But, the way I looked at it was different. Even Chinnappa had many questions. We wondered how and what technology was used to construct such huge Buddha idols and how, they converted the caves into temples between 1st century BC and 18 century. We wondered if the statues were carved out of hard rock. I argued that it looked like limestone. I pointed at a small hole and some restoration work at arm of one of the statues. Chinnappa was not convinced, but a monk, outside the temple confirmed that it was limestone statues under hard rock. More wondering thing is the waterlines in the caves, which kept inner premises dry even during rains.
The other temple I was inspired with was Sri Dalada Maligawa Royal complex temple. Basically a Royal palace, it was later converted into Buddha temple. Buddha’s tooth relic is placed in the first floor of the complex, which is opened periodically during day time. The temple was attacked by LTTE once, where the suicide bomber had killed more than 20 people. However, it is restored now and well maintained.
Though there is large influx of devotees, many of them carrying their newborn kids, the system does not allow people to be crowded. The colorful rituals add color to the temple. The temple also has a museum, which is worth watching.
Soon after coming out of the temple, Radha aunty was upset. ``Did you notice the number of tusks they had decorated in the temple? I counted at least 60 of them. How many elephants must have been killed for that?’’ she fumed.
It had gone unnoticed at least from my count. Chinnappa pacified her saying that every elephant might not have been killed. Many must have had natural deaths and the tusks were collected. Indeed, there is huge collection of tusks in the temple.
There are also some less known temples around Kandy and usually miss tourist maps. Nothing special onset, but I had a pleasant surprise when I visited one of them. I pointed at a chain of three temples, including Embekka temple, driver Lalu said that he could not take me there, as it was out of itinerary. I called up the tourist operator, who asked me to pay 50 US dollar more for adding up another destination.
When we went to the temple, I was disappointed. In the first place, we were charged entry fee, without informing us that the temple was closed and would open only after five hours. It was just like tiled roof supported by wooden pillars. When we went inside, there was Karthikeya banner covering the closed door. Next door was a small Buddha shrine.
As we came out of the Buddha shrine, we noticed some small carvings on the pillars that supported the roof. There was carving of wrestling and later, two peacocks locking their necks. Next two carvings baffled me. First was of a Lion, resembling Hoysala dynasty symbol. But, man fighting the Lion was absent. The next one was Ganda Bherunda, the twin headed bird and symbol of Mysore Wodeyars.
While getting out, I tried to collect history of the temple. The temple was built in 14th or 15th century by Gampola kings. Since it was a small temple, no one exactly had idea about either Lion or Ganda Bherunda bird sign. Just left me with more questions than answers…..
Most of the temples—whether Buddhist or Hindu are old and some are not even on tourist map. However, the temples leave many questions unanswered over the technology used during that period or even some of the designs, similar to ones in India.I was second time unlucky not to climb Sigiriya rock. First time, I had a decent view of the beautiful rock from main gate. This time, even that was not possible. All we could do was to have a side view from the main road.
But the case of Rangiri or Cave temple of Dambulla was different as I visited the caves second time also. Though Prasad and Radha aunty declined to climb the rock, Chinnappa wanted to give a try. I assured them that there was no need to climb till top of the rock, but they developed cold feet. I found much easier way to climb and Chinnappa was comfortable with it.
The cave mesmerized me as much it did first time, a decade ago. But, the way I looked at it was different. Even Chinnappa had many questions. We wondered how and what technology was used to construct such huge Buddha idols and how, they converted the caves into temples between 1st century BC and 18 century. We wondered if the statues were carved out of hard rock. I argued that it looked like limestone. I pointed at a small hole and some restoration work at arm of one of the statues. Chinnappa was not convinced, but a monk, outside the temple confirmed that it was limestone statues under hard rock. More wondering thing is the waterlines in the caves, which kept inner premises dry even during rains.
The other temple I was inspired with was Sri Dalada Maligawa Royal complex temple. Basically a Royal palace, it was later converted into Buddha temple. Buddha’s tooth relic is placed in the first floor of the complex, which is opened periodically during day time. The temple was attacked by LTTE once, where the suicide bomber had killed more than 20 people. However, it is restored now and well maintained. Though there is large influx of devotees, many of them carrying their newborn kids, the system does not allow people to be crowded. The colorful rituals add color to the temple. The temple also has a museum, which is worth watching.
Soon after coming out of the temple, Radha aunty was upset. ``Did you notice the number of tusks they had decorated in the temple? I counted at least 60 of them. How many elephants must have been killed for that?’’ she fumed.It had gone unnoticed at least from my count. Chinnappa pacified her saying that every elephant might not have been killed. Many must have had natural deaths and the tusks were collected. Indeed, there is huge collection of tusks in the temple.
There are also some less known temples around Kandy and usually miss tourist maps. Nothing special onset, but I had a pleasant surprise when I visited one of them. I pointed at a chain of three temples, including Embekka temple, driver Lalu said that he could not take me there, as it was out of itinerary. I called up the tourist operator, who asked me to pay 50 US dollar more for adding up another destination.When we went to the temple, I was disappointed. In the first place, we were charged entry fee, without informing us that the temple was closed and would open only after five hours. It was just like tiled roof supported by wooden pillars. When we went inside, there was Karthikeya banner covering the closed door. Next door was a small Buddha shrine.
As we came out of the Buddha shrine, we noticed some small carvings on the pillars that supported the roof. There was carving of wrestling and later, two peacocks locking their necks. Next two carvings baffled me. First was of a Lion, resembling Hoysala dynasty symbol. But, man fighting the Lion was absent. The next one was Ganda Bherunda, the twin headed bird and symbol of Mysore Wodeyars.
While getting out, I tried to collect history of the temple. The temple was built in 14th or 15th century by Gampola kings. Since it was a small temple, no one exactly had idea about either Lion or Ganda Bherunda bird sign. Just left me with more questions than answers…..
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