Monday, January 19, 2009
Sunday, January 18, 2009
NOTE
JUST A NOTE FOR READERS:
PLEASE OPEN THE TRAVELOGUE AS PER THE LIST IN ARCHIVES. IT GIVES CONTINUITY OF MY TRAVEL.
THANKS AND REGARDS
VINAY MADHAV
PLEASE OPEN THE TRAVELOGUE AS PER THE LIST IN ARCHIVES. IT GIVES CONTINUITY OF MY TRAVEL.
THANKS AND REGARDS
VINAY MADHAV
Monday, January 12, 2009
TARANGIRE
GLIMPSES OF TARANGIRE
A vist to Tarangire was a must. My African tour would have been incompete without visiting Tarangire. I had decided to get into the bushes of Tarangire, which is well known for its elephants.
Sarangeti is the farthest of all from Arusha, which takes five to six hours to drive. Other places are at a distance of
one to three hours drive and the approach roads are good. Shafiq picked me up at around 7 am in his Range Rover.On the way, I could see the deviations for Lake Manyara national park, Ngorongoro and Sarangeti. Behind Manyara Lake, I could see the mountain range in neighbouring Rwanda from the road itself. I was feeling bad for running out of time and missing seeing these places. I knew I was going to miss a lot of places in Tanzania.
'There is always a next time', I said to myslef and decided that I would visit Arusha first, when I get back to Africa again.
Shafiq explained me the different terrains in the area and told me that I should have stayed in Tanzania for little more time. He spoke good English and had good knowledge about flora, fauna and lifestyles of the region. In total, he could be one of the best tourist guides.
On the way, we came across the Maasais of Tanzania and Shafiq gave me a brief description of the difference between Maasais of Kenya and Tanzania. According to him, the Maasais of Tanzania were the real Maasais, while the Kenya Maasais were a mix of Somalis and Ethiopians.
"A maasai drinks hot blood of the animals he kills. He eats the meat and treats himself with native medicine. That is the life style of a maasai. Look at the people in Kenya, who claim themselves to be maasais. They eat jowar like us and go to doctors for any treatment. They have adopted some of the culture of maasai, after getting influenced with their lifestyle,’’ Shafiq argued.
That does not mean Shafiq has great respect for either of maasais. According to him, a maasai is nothing more than a cattle grazer. ``A maasai can marry any number of women. His wife will look after the family and even pays him for his expenses. I have only one wife and two children. I have to earn for my family and a maasai man does not take such responsibilities. There is no difference between an animal and a maasai man,’’ he said. Sounded interesting.
The maasais in Tanzania were as colourful or more colourful than maasais in Kenya. Most of them looked very business-minded, putting up shops on the road side. But, they have not given up their traditional attire.
As we entered into Tarangire national park, I realised that the bushes in Likipia were different than the bushes at Tarangire. In Likipia, the bushes are thicker and the terrain is totally different. As usual, we passed by herds of giraffes, antelopes and baboons. While we were passing through a herd of zebras, Shafiq pointed out at an Albino.
This was the third kind of zebra, I was seeing in Africa. First it was the regular zebra an
d then the Grevy’s zebra in Likipia. The Albinos are called mountain zebra, which has brownish stripe on its back. Besides, the stripes resemble the shape of a flower on its back.
We saw all animals, but still there was no glimpse of an elephant, for which Tarangire is famous for. After an hour or so, we sighted two of them and headed towards the view point next to the Tarangire river. It is a spectacular view, where the river flows 100 feet below the valley.
While we started descending down the valley, we came across the first herd of around 15 elephants. After playing in a pond for some time, a huge tusker walked straight towards us. I was confused for a moment, but the tusker decided to change the direction, barely 10 feet from us. As the herd passed our jeep, we could see another herd of around 25 elephants heading towards the pond.
We moved ahead towards the river bed and sighted more and more elephant herds. Most of the herds were moving towards the river bed and as we reached, I could not believe my
self. It was just elephant herds everywhere and the number could have easily crossed 500-600. I made a futile attempt to get the picture of the entire landscape, but could not cover even half of it. The elephants looked like ants in the pictures I took.
While we were having lunch, we saw an elephant herd just 10 metres behind our jeep. There was a huge elephant grazing on the river bed, which was again 10 feet below where the jeep was parked. In whatever direction I turned my eyes; I could just see elephants and elephants. I thought, this is what is called 'elephants in thousands'.
At around 3.30 pm, we headed towards Arusha and Shafiq had told me that I had to be dropped at the hotel by 6 pm. This time, I nodded reluctantly.
A vist to Tarangire was a must. My African tour would have been incompete without visiting Tarangire. I had decided to get into the bushes of Tarangire, which is well known for its elephants.
Sarangeti is the farthest of all from Arusha, which takes five to six hours to drive. Other places are at a distance of
one to three hours drive and the approach roads are good. Shafiq picked me up at around 7 am in his Range Rover.On the way, I could see the deviations for Lake Manyara national park, Ngorongoro and Sarangeti. Behind Manyara Lake, I could see the mountain range in neighbouring Rwanda from the road itself. I was feeling bad for running out of time and missing seeing these places. I knew I was going to miss a lot of places in Tanzania.'There is always a next time', I said to myslef and decided that I would visit Arusha first, when I get back to Africa again.
Shafiq explained me the different terrains in the area and told me that I should have stayed in Tanzania for little more time. He spoke good English and had good knowledge about flora, fauna and lifestyles of the region. In total, he could be one of the best tourist guides.
On the way, we came across the Maasais of Tanzania and Shafiq gave me a brief description of the difference between Maasais of Kenya and Tanzania. According to him, the Maasais of Tanzania were the real Maasais, while the Kenya Maasais were a mix of Somalis and Ethiopians.
"A maasai drinks hot blood of the animals he kills. He eats the meat and treats himself with native medicine. That is the life style of a maasai. Look at the people in Kenya, who claim themselves to be maasais. They eat jowar like us and go to doctors for any treatment. They have adopted some of the culture of maasai, after getting influenced with their lifestyle,’’ Shafiq argued.
That does not mean Shafiq has great respect for either of maasais. According to him, a maasai is nothing more than a cattle grazer. ``A maasai can marry any number of women. His wife will look after the family and even pays him for his expenses. I have only one wife and two children. I have to earn for my family and a maasai man does not take such responsibilities. There is no difference between an animal and a maasai man,’’ he said. Sounded interesting.
The maasais in Tanzania were as colourful or more colourful than maasais in Kenya. Most of them looked very business-minded, putting up shops on the road side. But, they have not given up their traditional attire.
As we entered into Tarangire national park, I realised that the bushes in Likipia were different than the bushes at Tarangire. In Likipia, the bushes are thicker and the terrain is totally different. As usual, we passed by herds of giraffes, antelopes and baboons. While we were passing through a herd of zebras, Shafiq pointed out at an Albino.
This was the third kind of zebra, I was seeing in Africa. First it was the regular zebra an
d then the Grevy’s zebra in Likipia. The Albinos are called mountain zebra, which has brownish stripe on its back. Besides, the stripes resemble the shape of a flower on its back.We saw all animals, but still there was no glimpse of an elephant, for which Tarangire is famous for. After an hour or so, we sighted two of them and headed towards the view point next to the Tarangire river. It is a spectacular view, where the river flows 100 feet below the valley.
While we started descending down the valley, we came across the first herd of around 15 elephants. After playing in a pond for some time, a huge tusker walked straight towards us. I was confused for a moment, but the tusker decided to change the direction, barely 10 feet from us. As the herd passed our jeep, we could see another herd of around 25 elephants heading towards the pond.
We moved ahead towards the river bed and sighted more and more elephant herds. Most of the herds were moving towards the river bed and as we reached, I could not believe my
self. It was just elephant herds everywhere and the number could have easily crossed 500-600. I made a futile attempt to get the picture of the entire landscape, but could not cover even half of it. The elephants looked like ants in the pictures I took.While we were having lunch, we saw an elephant herd just 10 metres behind our jeep. There was a huge elephant grazing on the river bed, which was again 10 feet below where the jeep was parked. In whatever direction I turned my eyes; I could just see elephants and elephants. I thought, this is what is called 'elephants in thousands'.
At around 3.30 pm, we headed towards Arusha and Shafiq had told me that I had to be dropped at the hotel by 6 pm. This time, I nodded reluctantly.
BUS TO TANZANIA
BUMPY BUS RIDE TO TANZANIA
In order to enjoy the surroundings in Africa, I decided on a bus journey to Tanzania. I was heading to Arusha town, around 350 kms from Nairobi. Siva had told me that there was `luxury’ bus service between Nairobi and Arusha.
It was a kind of mini-bus called shuttle service and the experience was exactly as any private buses in India. There were agents and bus operators, trying to woo the customers. But, they take good care of their customers and are very polite.The bus
started at 3 pm, one hour behind schedule. By the time we came out of Nairobi city, it was almost 4.30 pm. Getting out of African cities by road can be as frustrating as getting out of Bangalore city. The crowded traffic in the outskirts and foot path hawkers will add to the misery. Soon I realised that it was not a highway journey as I presumed. The
Chinese are laying the road in a big way, but at the moment, we had to travel on a mud road. It was very dusty, and the journey was very bad. I could see the quality of work being done by the Chinese. The entire road, after levelling, had been covered with long plastic sheets. On the side of the roads, laying of optic fibre cable was also in progress. ``Road to development’’, I thought.The rural side in Africa is very beautiful. Large tracts of open land, bushes and small hillocks ae worth enjoying amidst a bad journey. At around 7 pm, we reached Namanga, the Kenya-Tanzania border. Namanga is a small town, which has immigration offices of both Kenya and Tanzania. There is no presence of either military or any kind of security forces here.
It was a nice experience to see the vehicles crowd at the border. Long queue of trucks, and cars parked on both the sides ae a common scene. While you walk around the offices, hawkers, especially the Masai tribes approach you with colourful ornaments to make some quick business. The immigration process is too simple. Just walk into the Kenya office and get the immigration cleared. Enter Tanzania office and get a visa. Officials in both the offices were friendly. The Kenyan authorities inquired about my return date and wanted to know if I would be spending some more days in Kenya after my return. The Tanzanian officials asked me how long I would stay and suggested some places to visit. They generously issued visa for three months, though I told them that I would be staying in their country for only three days.
Even after all the passengers completed their immigration and visa process, the bus took a long time to start. We were only four foreigners – including two Israeli women and a US national. The rest were locals and we asked if there was any problem. But the driver assured that everything was fine.
At last, we started from Namanga at around 8.30 pm, only to be stopped within next 15 minutes at a customs check post. The bus did not move for one more hour and there were negotiations between the bus driver and the customs officials. At the end, the bus driver decided to leave behind some luggage, which was under dispute.
Things went wrong further down the journey. On the way, there was a huge pile up of the highway traffic, following a small accident. The driver did not even give a second thought and diverted the shuttle bus
towards a road under-construction road. It was bumpy and too dusty, but there was no option. By this time, even I felt a little fatigued, but could see some lights at a distance. In the next 15 minutes, we were in Arusha and the driver dropped me at Impala hotel, where I had booked my stay. One good thing about the shuttle bus is that they drop the tourists and pick them up from their door steps. Though a bumpy and dusty ride, I was happy at the end of it.Arusha
Sunday, January 11, 2009
ARUSHA
ARUSHA, A WINDOW TO EAST AFRICA
Early in the morning, I just peeped out of the hotel room window to see a huge mountain. I could not make out which one was that – Mt Meru or Mt Kilimanjaro. While heading for breakfast, I enquired and confirmed with the reception that it was Mt. Meru. 
I just had an idea that Arusha, which is in the northern tip of Tanzania, was near to many national parks, but had no clear idea on the topography. When I tried to exchange $100, I got 1,20,000 Tanzania shillings back. It was difficult for me to handle these big denominations.
By 11 am, I set out to the travel agent’s office to confirm my return ticket. Arusha is a small, but beautiful city. The roads are clean and the streets in commercial area are narrow, but clean. While I was making enquiries on my return ticket, the person in the counter asked me to meet the Director. As I entered the chamber, I realised that he was of an Indian origin.
Mustaqali Abdallah is the fourth generation of his family, living in Tanzania. He started Bobby Tours and Safaris 35 years ago. His son Kassim has joined him in the business and looking after the shuttle bus service across the country. He is among the top five tourist operators in Tanzania. (Other four are also Asians, of whom two are Indians).
Mustaqali’s great grand father had migrated to Tanzania, a century ago. As we started talking, I realised that the time I had at Arusha was too short. It takes at least a week to cover entire Arusha, which is a window for the entire topography of East Africa. You have great bushes at Tarangire and great planes at Sarangeti. Two great mountains of Africa are here, while rift valley lake Manyara has a lot to offer. Moreover, the crater of Ngorongoro is one thing that no one could miss. If someone wants to climb mountains, it may take a month.
I just decided to take a round in the main streets. My cab driver told me that there were only two streets, where I could look for some interesting things. Since it was already afternoon, I asked him to pick me up from the hotel at around 6 pm.
When I went back to the heart of the town by 6 pm, all the shops were closed. The roads were deserted. Cab driver Phillip had called me at 4 pm and asked if I wanted to visit the commercial area. I told him that we would go by 6 pm. I looked at Phillip’s face, who understood my plight. ``Everything closes between 5 and 5.30 pm. Business people come to the town from long distances and want to reach home before 6 pm,’’ he said in a calm voice.
I stepped out of the car to take a walk in the deserted street. Even before covering 10 metres, I could see a group of police, armed with a pistol on the holster and a shot gun in the hand, giving a strange look at me. One of the police signalled Phillip, who called me back.
``Sir, tourists are advised by the police to reach their hotels by 6 pm. Either you can go to a night club and stay up to 2 am or get back to the hotel,’’ he said. I just nodded my head. Before heading to the hotel, Phillip ensured that I had a good round of the entire Arusha town, including the down town, museum area and another area, which was full of government offices.
I really wanted to check about the law and order situation and the crime rate in Arusha. Even the hotel had a bunch of security guards, sporting shot guns. However, the hotel receptionist Anneta assured me that Arusha was a safe town, as she always went home at 11 in the night. ``The gangs from villages come and loot the shops. So far, no foreign tourist has been attacked and the police are taking precautionary measures,’’ she said. And, I smiled.
I just had an idea that Arusha, which is in the northern tip of Tanzania, was near to many national parks, but had no clear idea on the topography. When I tried to exchange $100, I got 1,20,000 Tanzania shillings back. It was difficult for me to handle these big denominations.
By 11 am, I set out to the travel agent’s office to confirm my return ticket. Arusha is a small, but beautiful city. The roads are clean and the streets in commercial area are narrow, but clean. While I was making enquiries on my return ticket, the person in the counter asked me to meet the Director. As I entered the chamber, I realised that he was of an Indian origin.
Mustaqali Abdallah is the fourth generation of his family, living in Tanzania. He started Bobby Tours and Safaris 35 years ago. His son Kassim has joined him in the business and looking after the shuttle bus service across the country. He is among the top five tourist operators in Tanzania. (Other four are also Asians, of whom two are Indians).
Mustaqali’s great grand father had migrated to Tanzania, a century ago. As we started talking, I realised that the time I had at Arusha was too short. It takes at least a week to cover entire Arusha, which is a window for the entire topography of East Africa. You have great bushes at Tarangire and great planes at Sarangeti. Two great mountains of Africa are here, while rift valley lake Manyara has a lot to offer. Moreover, the crater of Ngorongoro is one thing that no one could miss. If someone wants to climb mountains, it may take a month.
I just decided to take a round in the main streets. My cab driver told me that there were only two streets, where I could look for some interesting things. Since it was already afternoon, I asked him to pick me up from the hotel at around 6 pm.
When I went back to the heart of the town by 6 pm, all the shops were closed. The roads were deserted. Cab driver Phillip had called me at 4 pm and asked if I wanted to visit the commercial area. I told him that we would go by 6 pm. I looked at Phillip’s face, who understood my plight. ``Everything closes between 5 and 5.30 pm. Business people come to the town from long distances and want to reach home before 6 pm,’’ he said in a calm voice.
I stepped out of the car to take a walk in the deserted street. Even before covering 10 metres, I could see a group of police, armed with a pistol on the holster and a shot gun in the hand, giving a strange look at me. One of the police signalled Phillip, who called me back.
``Sir, tourists are advised by the police to reach their hotels by 6 pm. Either you can go to a night club and stay up to 2 am or get back to the hotel,’’ he said. I just nodded my head. Before heading to the hotel, Phillip ensured that I had a good round of the entire Arusha town, including the down town, museum area and another area, which was full of government offices.
I really wanted to check about the law and order situation and the crime rate in Arusha. Even the hotel had a bunch of security guards, sporting shot guns. However, the hotel receptionist Anneta assured me that Arusha was a safe town, as she always went home at 11 in the night. ``The gangs from villages come and loot the shops. So far, no foreign tourist has been attacked and the police are taking precautionary measures,’’ she said. And, I smiled.
Arusha
THE CUTE BIRDS
THE LITTLE BIRDS OF KENYA
As I entered Nyanuki airport, I felt as if I was entering a club house. It is just on the side of Nyanuki-Nairobi highway and people can see the aircrafts parked around. There is no security around and it is just a fencing covered around it.
I had booked my ticket for Air Kenya flight over telephone. The girl, who had attended my call, told me that my flight was at 10 am and I had to check in before 9.45 am. Since I was driving from Nehruru, I did not even stop for a breakfast, fearing that I would be late.
I just entered one of the two buildings in the airport, which had a restaurant and inquired about Air Kenya office. No one knew and asked me to check up in the other building. The other building looked like an administrative building, and when I asked enquired about the Air Kenya office, the person asked me to meet Marshall, who would be there in minutes.
I guessed Marshall should be the in charge of Air Kenya operations in Nyanuki. A person in his 50s showed up and asked my name. He took out a sheet of paper that was placed on a barrel and pointed out my name in the list of 10 passengers. It was a hand written list. Marshall wondered what I was doing in the airport so early, as the flight would leave Nairobi at 10 am. ``It has to go to three places before reaching here. It will reach here by 11 am or 11.30 am. If you want to wait, you can. If you have some work in Nyanuki, you finish it and be here before 11.30 am,’’he said.
I was taken aback for a moment, but decided to wait. I asked him about the payment for purchasing the ticket. ``You travel first. You can make the payment at Nairobi office and they will issue a receipt,’’ Marshall said casually and took away my luggage.
Soon I realised that Marshall was a sort of porter in the airport and handled luggage of all the aircrafts that landed here. He used his mobile phone to find out what time the Air Kenya aircraft would land at Nyanuki, as the flight had not yet come into radio contact with Nyanuki airport. Whenever an aircraft arrived, Marshall ran to them and unloaded the luggage. Some small two to five seater aircrafts too arrived here. The pilots used to walk across the runway, get into a jeep and drive back near the aircraft. Marshall used to load the luggage to jeeps, which used to drive away.
At Nyanuki airport, it was like waiting for a government bus in a remote village. The flight did not turn up till 11.45 am and I was anxious. I had a bus to catch at 2 pm from Nairobi and I thought I made a mistake. Marshall kept assuring me and contacted Samburu airstrip over his mobile phone. At 11.50 am, the flight landed and it did not take even 10 minutes to be in air. At 12.35 pm, I was in Wilson airport, Nairobi. I had to make inquiries to find the place where I had to make my payment and it was done in five minutes. It was a different experience from other airport hassles like security check or long queues at the counters.
The private air services in most of the East African countries are similar to Kenya. It fascinated me from the first day when I landed at the Wilson airport. The services in the tourism destinations will be rather funny, for those who are not used to flying in the small aircrafts.
When I started back from Masai Mara, I was ready at around 2.30 pm. The flight was scheduled to be at around 3 pm. But, Shailesh Patel was casual and asked me to relax till the flight landed. We went on chatting till 3.30, when he received a message on wireless. ``The flight is landing and we can leave to the airstrip in five minutes,’’ he said. No one, including the people carrying my luggage was in hurry. When we reached the airstrip, just outside the resort gate, the flight had just stopped.
The pilot was the complete in charge of the flight. He opened the luggage boot and picked up my luggage. When I tried to put it myself, he just smiled and said ``you are my guest and let me serve you, Sir.’’ Inside the flight, he turned back and handed over a box of mint and announced that Alex will be his co-pilot from this point. I could not see any one in the co-pilot’s place, till the face of a six-year-old boy peeped from middle of the seat and smiled at its parents.
Most of the airstrips in tourism destinations in Africa would be on a private land. The owner of the land will get royalty for every landing – ranging from 5 $ to $25, depending on the size of the runway. Each airstrip will have minimum 100 landings per month.
There is little or no government interference in the domestic air service, barring issuing of license and collecting tax. The private operators decide everything and the people get money out of it. But, the system is much better connected and well served than any organised set up.
As I entered Nyanuki airport, I felt as if I was entering a club house. It is just on the side of Nyanuki-Nairobi highway and people can see the aircrafts parked around. There is no security around and it is just a fencing covered around it.
I had booked my ticket for Air Kenya flight over telephone. The girl, who had attended my call, told me that my flight was at 10 am and I had to check in before 9.45 am. Since I was driving from Nehruru, I did not even stop for a breakfast, fearing that I would be late.I just entered one of the two buildings in the airport, which had a restaurant and inquired about Air Kenya office. No one knew and asked me to check up in the other building. The other building looked like an administrative building, and when I asked enquired about the Air Kenya office, the person asked me to meet Marshall, who would be there in minutes.
I guessed Marshall should be the in charge of Air Kenya operations in Nyanuki. A person in his 50s showed up and asked my name. He took out a sheet of paper that was placed on a barrel and pointed out my name in the list of 10 passengers. It was a hand written list. Marshall wondered what I was doing in the airport so early, as the flight would leave Nairobi at 10 am. ``It has to go to three places before reaching here. It will reach here by 11 am or 11.30 am. If you want to wait, you can. If you have some work in Nyanuki, you finish it and be here before 11.30 am,’’he said.
I was taken aback for a moment, but decided to wait. I asked him about the payment for purchasing the ticket. ``You travel first. You can make the payment at Nairobi office and they will issue a receipt,’’ Marshall said casually and took away my luggage.
Soon I realised that Marshall was a sort of porter in the airport and handled luggage of all the aircrafts that landed here. He used his mobile phone to find out what time the Air Kenya aircraft would land at Nyanuki, as the flight had not yet come into radio contact with Nyanuki airport. Whenever an aircraft arrived, Marshall ran to them and unloaded the luggage. Some small two to five seater aircrafts too arrived here. The pilots used to walk across the runway, get into a jeep and drive back near the aircraft. Marshall used to load the luggage to jeeps, which used to drive away.
At Nyanuki airport, it was like waiting for a government bus in a remote village. The flight did not turn up till 11.45 am and I was anxious. I had a bus to catch at 2 pm from Nairobi and I thought I made a mistake. Marshall kept assuring me and contacted Samburu airstrip over his mobile phone. At 11.50 am, the flight landed and it did not take even 10 minutes to be in air. At 12.35 pm, I was in Wilson airport, Nairobi. I had to make inquiries to find the place where I had to make my payment and it was done in five minutes. It was a different experience from other airport hassles like security check or long queues at the counters.
The private air services in most of the East African countries are similar to Kenya. It fascinated me from the first day when I landed at the Wilson airport. The services in the tourism destinations will be rather funny, for those who are not used to flying in the small aircrafts.
When I started back from Masai Mara, I was ready at around 2.30 pm. The flight was scheduled to be at around 3 pm. But, Shailesh Patel was casual and asked me to relax till the flight landed. We went on chatting till 3.30, when he received a message on wireless. ``The flight is landing and we can leave to the airstrip in five minutes,’’ he said. No one, including the people carrying my luggage was in hurry. When we reached the airstrip, just outside the resort gate, the flight had just stopped.
The pilot was the complete in charge of the flight. He opened the luggage boot and picked up my luggage. When I tried to put it myself, he just smiled and said ``you are my guest and let me serve you, Sir.’’ Inside the flight, he turned back and handed over a box of mint and announced that Alex will be his co-pilot from this point. I could not see any one in the co-pilot’s place, till the face of a six-year-old boy peeped from middle of the seat and smiled at its parents.
Most of the airstrips in tourism destinations in Africa would be on a private land. The owner of the land will get royalty for every landing – ranging from 5 $ to $25, depending on the size of the runway. Each airstrip will have minimum 100 landings per month.
There is little or no government interference in the domestic air service, barring issuing of license and collecting tax. The private operators decide everything and the people get money out of it. But, the system is much better connected and well served than any organised set up.
18-12-2008
Nairobi
Nairobi
INCREDIBLE AFRICA
LIVING IN KENYA: THERE IS NO HURRY IN AFRICA
`NO HURRY IN AFRICA’ was a sticker that I saw at Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi, when I landed there. I felt it was right, since I had spent over two hours in the visa counter. Inspite of a long queue, the person was taking 5-6 minutes per person, for a job that could be done in a minute.
Kenyans have great patience. No one jumps the lane in the traffic and stops when another vehicle wants to cross over the road. There are not many motorcycles on Nairobi road, barring some BMWs, sloppy cops riding them. They live with slow traffic on the roads, without complaining.
Though narrow, the roads are straight. Here, either is a road or no road. Most of the roads are in good conditions. The number of pot holes are not as much as in India.
The Chinese companies have started laying major roads in the country. The road quality is really good and the Chinese goods are making inroads in to the Kenya market. The Daily Nation newspaper had flashed a news that the government had given a major oil exploration contract to Chinese company and road laying was complimentary for awarding the oil contract. The news could not be confirmed. The news item was carried forward to another page and the continuation part was missing in that page.
It's not only the ordinary Kenyan, who lives with many problems, even the country lives has lot of problems. Living here is expensive and everything is available for a price. People walk long distances to attend to work and walking begins at 7 in the morning. Some can afford motatos, the local transport. In rural areas, people cannot afford even one meal a day. Sometime, the kids are not fed for days together.
The government regulates food grain distribution, which is mainly maize. An article in Kenya’s leading newspaper `Standard’ flashed an article that low price maize was creating confusion. A 2kg maize flour bag was being sold at 120 Kenyan Shillings. Suddenly, a 5kg bag surfaced in the market, which was priced at 170 Kenyan Shillings. This had created a debate among the people.
The political situation is fluid in Kenya, which is more so, since the last general elections, which took place in Dec 2007. The President was all powerful till then and the incumbent Mwai Kibaki was re-running for the Presidential post. As the results were being announced, his party was losing all over. In the last minute, millions of votes came in favour of his party and he was re-elected as President.
This created a huge communal clash in the country, leaving over 3700 dead. While Kibaki was a Kikuyu, the largest tribe in Kenya, his opponent Raila Odinga was a Luhya tribe, which is the second largest. The third largest tribe Luo (US President elect Barack Obama’s father is from this community) supported Odinga. At the end, the truce had worked out between Kibaki and Odinga groups. Kibaki continued as the President, while Odinga became the Prime Minister. The power is equally shared between the President and Parliament. But, it seems to be an uneasy truce between the President and Parliament.
Like the 'Indian standard timings', there is a phrase called 'African standard timings'. One can never keep up with appointments in time. I realised it during my arrival at Nyanuki. My friend Siva picked me up and introduced me to Phillip, who works with African Wildlife Foundation. Phillip said that he would be meeting us in 10 minutes at his office. The office was hardly one kilometre away, which we reached in three minutes. Though it is a very small town in Indian standards, Phillip took over an hour to reach there.
Power shortage is a big issue here. While many parts are not connected with electricity, power cuts are common in big cities too. Most of the tourism operators use generators for two hours in the morning and three hours in the evening. Even the fuel prices are quite high, over one dollar a litre.
Now, it is the era of communication revolution in Kenya. But, the situation seems to be where India was 10 years ago. Mobile phones have replaced the land lines. The government has just destroyed the old land line cable connections. For Internet connectivity, people have to depend on satellite connections, for which, one has to pay through his nose. The speed of the connection would depend on the package bought over by the buyer.
Now, many private firms, including Reliance has taken the license to lay optic fibre cables. The work has begun and once the cable is laid, the communication network would be good.
Tourism is keeping Kenya’s economy floating, but the global slowdown has already shown signs of its effect. But, Kenyans have understood the long term use of tourism and are fighting back. The UN presence for humanitarian works is glaring at Nairobi and many people make their living with the aid given by international donor agencies.
On one side, there is tremendous pressure for growth, but it is not reaching the rural areas. But, Kenyans are not in a hurry.
16-12-2008
Mpala
`NO HURRY IN AFRICA’ was a sticker that I saw at Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi, when I landed there. I felt it was right, since I had spent over two hours in the visa counter. Inspite of a long queue, the person was taking 5-6 minutes per person, for a job that could be done in a minute.
Kenyans have great patience. No one jumps the lane in the traffic and stops when another vehicle wants to cross over the road. There are not many motorcycles on Nairobi road, barring some BMWs, sloppy cops riding them. They live with slow traffic on the roads, without complaining.
Though narrow, the roads are straight. Here, either is a road or no road. Most of the roads are in good conditions. The number of pot holes are not as much as in India.
The Chinese companies have started laying major roads in the country. The road quality is really good and the Chinese goods are making inroads in to the Kenya market. The Daily Nation newspaper had flashed a news that the government had given a major oil exploration contract to Chinese company and road laying was complimentary for awarding the oil contract. The news could not be confirmed. The news item was carried forward to another page and the continuation part was missing in that page.
It's not only the ordinary Kenyan, who lives with many problems, even the country lives has lot of problems. Living here is expensive and everything is available for a price. People walk long distances to attend to work and walking begins at 7 in the morning. Some can afford motatos, the local transport. In rural areas, people cannot afford even one meal a day. Sometime, the kids are not fed for days together.
The government regulates food grain distribution, which is mainly maize. An article in Kenya’s leading newspaper `Standard’ flashed an article that low price maize was creating confusion. A 2kg maize flour bag was being sold at 120 Kenyan Shillings. Suddenly, a 5kg bag surfaced in the market, which was priced at 170 Kenyan Shillings. This had created a debate among the people.
The political situation is fluid in Kenya, which is more so, since the last general elections, which took place in Dec 2007. The President was all powerful till then and the incumbent Mwai Kibaki was re-running for the Presidential post. As the results were being announced, his party was losing all over. In the last minute, millions of votes came in favour of his party and he was re-elected as President.
This created a huge communal clash in the country, leaving over 3700 dead. While Kibaki was a Kikuyu, the largest tribe in Kenya, his opponent Raila Odinga was a Luhya tribe, which is the second largest. The third largest tribe Luo (US President elect Barack Obama’s father is from this community) supported Odinga. At the end, the truce had worked out between Kibaki and Odinga groups. Kibaki continued as the President, while Odinga became the Prime Minister. The power is equally shared between the President and Parliament. But, it seems to be an uneasy truce between the President and Parliament.
Like the 'Indian standard timings', there is a phrase called 'African standard timings'. One can never keep up with appointments in time. I realised it during my arrival at Nyanuki. My friend Siva picked me up and introduced me to Phillip, who works with African Wildlife Foundation. Phillip said that he would be meeting us in 10 minutes at his office. The office was hardly one kilometre away, which we reached in three minutes. Though it is a very small town in Indian standards, Phillip took over an hour to reach there.
Power shortage is a big issue here. While many parts are not connected with electricity, power cuts are common in big cities too. Most of the tourism operators use generators for two hours in the morning and three hours in the evening. Even the fuel prices are quite high, over one dollar a litre.
Now, it is the era of communication revolution in Kenya. But, the situation seems to be where India was 10 years ago. Mobile phones have replaced the land lines. The government has just destroyed the old land line cable connections. For Internet connectivity, people have to depend on satellite connections, for which, one has to pay through his nose. The speed of the connection would depend on the package bought over by the buyer.
Now, many private firms, including Reliance has taken the license to lay optic fibre cables. The work has begun and once the cable is laid, the communication network would be good.
Tourism is keeping Kenya’s economy floating, but the global slowdown has already shown signs of its effect. But, Kenyans have understood the long term use of tourism and are fighting back. The UN presence for humanitarian works is glaring at Nairobi and many people make their living with the aid given by international donor agencies.
On one side, there is tremendous pressure for growth, but it is not reaching the rural areas. But, Kenyans are not in a hurry.
16-12-2008
Mpala
RIFT VALLEY
DRIVING DOWN THE RIFT VALLEY TO NUKUR
At Mpala, I realised that the chances of me tracking the gorillas in the mountains of Rwanda, Uganda or Congo was remote. Gorilla tracking is very expensive, which is allowed for a limited number of people every day.
The global meltdown seems to be hitting tourism in this part of Africa as well, and the authorities here told me that they were not getting the required number of people to issue permit. This took me two extra days in Mpala, where I realised that I may have to cut short my other plans and decided to head to Tanzania.
Before heading to Tanzania, I wanted to visit the rift valley. I had heard a lot abou the lakes in the rift valley like Lake Baringo, sprawling over 16,000 hectares and Lake Bogori, a hot water spring lake.
Ceicil, a research internee with th esatellite image study 
of Mpala, was happy to accompany me. We decided to hire a cab and drive by ourselves. Mpala's administrative officer Tuni was happy to help me and got me a Toyota Carolla for the journey. Soon after James, the cab owner handed over the car keys, Ceicil asked me if I was going to drive, since he was comfortable only with auto-gear cars.
Though it was a matter of pride to drive in a foreign land, I was greeted by a surprise! I don’t have an international driving license, but had no option at this point of time. Soon after I passed Nyanuki, my worst fears came true. On the highway, when we passed by the first traffic police, we saw him waving, or I presumed he waved at us. I was confused wether to stop or not. Ceicil asked me not to stop, but I decided to face the worst and slowed down. The cop looked surprised at the expression on my face and asked me to produce my driving license. I told him that I had an Indian driving license and produced it.
Soon the cop began talking tough and said that he would charge me for the crime I committed in Kenya. While Ceicil began conversing with him in Swahili, the local language, I was a mute spectator. The cop asked me to produce my passport and I handed it over to him without a word. Even after five minutes, the cop did not show any indication of arresting me. He was just telling Ceicil that he would be producing me before the magistrate, who would slap a fine on me and may even send me to jail. I silently passed a note of 1000 Kenyan Shilling in Ceicil’s hand. Immediately, my passport and driving license were in my hands and the cop shook my hand with a big smile. Hmmm, I was stunned at the behaviour of the cop, as this was nothing new to us Indians!
When we left, Ceicil told me that the cop was waving at the motato (local private transport, just like our maxi cab, which have to operate only on licensed routes) and not at us. ``They don’t stop private vehicles on highways,’’ he added. A lesson learnt the hard way. Since then, I never stopped at any point, even in places the entire stertch was of the highway was manned by traffic cops.
Traffic cops on Kenya highways never target private car owners unless the driver is not wearing the seat belt.
Our original plan was to visit lake Bogori first and reach lake Boringo by evening as we had to start off early the next morning. I had to catch a flight from Nyanuki to Nairobi. Initially, Ceicil said that he knew the way, as he had visited the two lakes couple of times. He hails from Nakuru, which is near to both the places. On the way, I realised that Ceicil knew the route from Nukuru and not from Nyanuki. The route map was made through satellite pictures, downloaded in the lab, but was of little help while driving. We had to take a deviation at Nehruru, after visiting Thomson falls. But, the locals warned us against taking a deviation, as the route was very narrow and unsafe. Instead, they had suggested to us to go via Nukuru.
We had driven three hours and had one more hour to reach Nukur. From there, Lake Bogori would be two hours and further two hours to Lake Baringo. I decided to settle for visiting Nukuru Lake National Park, instead of trying a misadventure at that point of time.
While driving down the rift valley, I realised how beautiful it was. In one shot, we had to descend over 500 feet into the valley – like something that exists in our ghat sections. On the top, it is a fertile land where people grow coffee, tea and other spices. Nukur is the place, where excavation on human evolution has taken place and has a lot of archaeological importance. By the time we reached Nukur by afternoon, we had crossed the equator six times and at the end of the day, we had crossed it eight times.
Nukuru is a beautiful city, with world class infrastructure. It is the fourth largest city in Kenya. Nukuru Lake National park is just adjacent to the city and four kilometres from the city centre. It has all large animals in it. Though the city has grown right to the adjacent of the national park, there is hardly any human-animal conflict. The entire national park is electrically fenced, so that animals cannot enter the city.
Driving inside the park is a pleasure and a tourist can never regret for visiting the place. The national park is around a rift valley lake, which is over 10,000 hectares. It is surrounded by hills and there are facilities to drive around the lake and over the hills. Some nice picnic points have been made on top of the hills, from where the tourists can have a bird’s eye view of the magnificent lake. There are at least six beautiful resorts in the national park and two or three camping sites. There are many activities available in the park – all for a price. The lake is inhabited by birds like pelican, flamingo and others. A large track of urea is formed around the lake, which is the result of bird droppings.
Near the pelican corner, I drove straight on the urea track till a car tyre mark was found. I parked the car and was getting ready to take pictures. Suddenly Ceicil pointed out that we were sinking. I just got out of the car and realised that the front tyres of the car was sinking. I tried backing up, which worsened the situation. In five minutes, we were in trouble.
We decided to seek help from other vehicles, but many were reluctant as the place was wet. At last, a range rover with four wheel drive came to our rescue. We knew that the driver and his assistant were doing a business. They said that the forest officials could fine us up to $1000 so close to the lake. We had no choice 
but settling for 1500 Kenyan Shillings with them.
The rescue process went on for over an hour and our car came out safely. But, the range rover got badly caught in the process. We just gave a gentle push to the car, started it and drove to safety. But, the range rover had dug a huge hole around its wheels, which began spinning. We got some boulders and wood pieces from the road to bail it out, but the driver decided to call for another help and asked us to leave the place.
We decided to drive back till Nehruru, as we had to reach Nyanuki before 10 in the morning. It was half past eight when we reached Nehruru, which was an odd time to drive. We took up a room in a hotel for the night, next to Thomson falls, and decided to continue the journey next morning.
17-12-2008
Nehruru
SIVA
FROM TIGER TAIL TO ZEBRA STRIPES
First time I met Siva was in front of the Marina Grills hotel at Nyanuki. Till he arrived in his green colour Land Cruiser, I had no idea how he looked. We had exchanged mails and spoken over telephone before I reached there.
All I knew about Siva Sundaresan was that he had worked on tigers at Nagarahole National Park in Karnataka. That was way back in 1999, before he left for US to do his PhD in Wildlife Biology. The common interest between the two of us was wildlife and the linking point betwen us was noted wildlife biologist from Bangaore, India, Dr Ullas Karanth.
Once we met, Siva spoke to me as if we were pals for decades. Friendly and hospitable, Siva had made arrangements for me to stay at the Mpala Research Centre. As we started driving towards Mpala, Siva had opened up a new world to me on Lipikia district.
What I realised was Siva had come a long way in wildlife conservation and research. Today, he is one of the 14 members of the Grevy’s Zebra Technical Committee, an advisory committee to the Kenya government on conservation of Grevy’s Zebra.
Born and brought up in Chennai, India, Siva started his wildlife related activities when he was doing his under graduation at Pilani in Rajastan. He was doing summer camps in wildlife areas with Ranjit Daniel and Prof. Raman Sukumar of Indian Institute of Science, Bangalore, who is doing a research on Asiatic elephants.
After completing his graduation, he wrote to Ullas Karanth that he wanted to work with him. He got a call and immediately joined Karanth’s research team, which was involved in camera trapping of tigers.
In 1999, Karanth asked Siva to enrol himself for a PhD project and he left to Princeton University, US. During his PhD, he came to Kenya for his thesis, which was on Zebras. He also worked on wild asses in the Kutch area of Rajastan. After his PhD, he got the post-doctoral work in Kenya itself and started working around Mpala.
Siva’s wife Corinna is an American and her father is of Greek origin. A friendly girl, Corinna is also working on community participation in conservation at Mpala.
Grevy’s zebra is named after the French President, who first sponsored a study tour of the area on wildlife. The main study of Siva is on effect of lions on Grevy’s zebra in the ecosystem.
Apart from research, there is a lot of conservation work Siva is doing around. ``There are many groups, which are interested in conservation in this area. We have formed a working group of these interest groups. Even formation of the committee is a result of these working groups,’’ Siva explained.
Over the years, Siva seems to have got involved with Likipia district. He goes on explaining the landscape, wildlife, problems and conservation of the area. Though his post doctor period is ending in a year, he is unlikely to move out of the place. His hands are full and he has his students doing a lion project in way up after Lake Baringo. He is trying to radio collar a lion or two in that area and later some Grevy’s zebra near Mpala. He has rented a house and it is doubtful that he can own one. The law does not permit foreigners to own rural lands.
Siva is bothered about the multi-dimensional problems in Lipikia district. But, he is optimistic of conservation in the area. ``The land erosion cause worries about the future of the area. On a positive side to it, I think we can make wildlife earn some money for the welfare of the people. In that case, conservation is not impossible,’’ he said.
``The main prob
lem in the livestock is goat and sheep. The cattle are not a problem, as the number of cattle is not going up. Though it goes up, Kenya is known for its droughts, which will wipe out the entire population. It gives sometime for the cattle to recoup. But, the sheep here survives all conditions and the people are getting more sheep, which can earn cash component in the market. This is the main problem that has to be tackled in this region,’’ he added.
Mpala
12-12-2008
First time I met Siva was in front of the Marina Grills hotel at Nyanuki. Till he arrived in his green colour Land Cruiser, I had no idea how he looked. We had exchanged mails and spoken over telephone before I reached there.
All I knew about Siva Sundaresan was that he had worked on tigers at Nagarahole National Park in Karnataka. That was way back in 1999, before he left for US to do his PhD in Wildlife Biology. The common interest between the two of us was wildlife and the linking point betwen us was noted wildlife biologist from Bangaore, India, Dr Ullas Karanth.
Once we met, Siva spoke to me as if we were pals for decades. Friendly and hospitable, Siva had made arrangements for me to stay at the Mpala Research Centre. As we started driving towards Mpala, Siva had opened up a new world to me on Lipikia district.
What I realised was Siva had come a long way in wildlife conservation and research. Today, he is one of the 14 members of the Grevy’s Zebra Technical Committee, an advisory committee to the Kenya government on conservation of Grevy’s Zebra.
Born and brought up in Chennai, India, Siva started his wildlife related activities when he was doing his under graduation at Pilani in Rajastan. He was doing summer camps in wildlife areas with Ranjit Daniel and Prof. Raman Sukumar of Indian Institute of Science, Bangalore, who is doing a research on Asiatic elephants.
After completing his graduation, he wrote to Ullas Karanth that he wanted to work with him. He got a call and immediately joined Karanth’s research team, which was involved in camera trapping of tigers.
In 1999, Karanth asked Siva to enrol himself for a PhD project and he left to Princeton University, US. During his PhD, he came to Kenya for his thesis, which was on Zebras. He also worked on wild asses in the Kutch area of Rajastan. After his PhD, he got the post-doctoral work in Kenya itself and started working around Mpala.
Siva’s wife Corinna is an American and her father is of Greek origin. A friendly girl, Corinna is also working on community participation in conservation at Mpala.
Grevy’s zebra is named after the French President, who first sponsored a study tour of the area on wildlife. The main study of Siva is on effect of lions on Grevy’s zebra in the ecosystem.
Apart from research, there is a lot of conservation work Siva is doing around. ``There are many groups, which are interested in conservation in this area. We have formed a working group of these interest groups. Even formation of the committee is a result of these working groups,’’ Siva explained.
Over the years, Siva seems to have got involved with Likipia district. He goes on explaining the landscape, wildlife, problems and conservation of the area. Though his post doctor period is ending in a year, he is unlikely to move out of the place. His hands are full and he has his students doing a lion project in way up after Lake Baringo. He is trying to radio collar a lion or two in that area and later some Grevy’s zebra near Mpala. He has rented a house and it is doubtful that he can own one. The law does not permit foreigners to own rural lands.
Siva is bothered about the multi-dimensional problems in Lipikia district. But, he is optimistic of conservation in the area. ``The land erosion cause worries about the future of the area. On a positive side to it, I think we can make wildlife earn some money for the welfare of the people. In that case, conservation is not impossible,’’ he said.
``The main prob
lem in the livestock is goat and sheep. The cattle are not a problem, as the number of cattle is not going up. Though it goes up, Kenya is known for its droughts, which will wipe out the entire population. It gives sometime for the cattle to recoup. But, the sheep here survives all conditions and the people are getting more sheep, which can earn cash component in the market. This is the main problem that has to be tackled in this region,’’ he added.Mpala
12-12-2008
Mpala
Mpala WILDLIFE RESEARCH AND CONSERVANCY IN A RANCH
Like any part of the world, even Africa is facing severe conservation problems. While poaching is one problem, loss of habitat due to cattle grazing is another larger problem. Added to +-16+059.JPG)
this, periodical drought will have its own effect on the ecosystem.
How do you conserve the grasslands so that the cattle and wildlife get their due share? What will be the effect of not allowing cattle grazing? What if the cattle is allowed to graze, but made to move fast from one area to another, so that there is no over grazing? What will be the effect of cutting trees in the bushes? Will it allow growth of more grass?
If such questions arises in India, one should try to find theoretical answers. But such experiments are going on here along with other researches like the impact of Grevy’s zebra on lion population, conservation pattern in community ranches, mapping the different topography through satellite pictures and so on. Name the research in wildlife conservation, the Mpala research and conservancy has it.
Interestingly, Mpala itself is a ranch property, which has been bought by Sam Small, a retired Royal Canada Army personnel in 1957. He handed over the property to his brother George Small, who wanted to use it for the benefit of Likipia district and conservation of wildlife in the area.
For a common man, the research centre may appear like a different world altogether. After travelling around 15 kms from Nyanuki, you don’t have an asphalted road and the world of ranches begin from there. The next 30 kms, you pass through various ranches, before reaching the research centre.
The ranch extends to around 250 sq kms and power is a distant dream here. The research centre depends on some solar panels and generator for power. Internet connection is through satellite and mobile network is absent. And, talk of road, it is does not exist for over 100 kms.
The researchers here live in either `bandas’ (a stone hut), located at a distance of around 20 meters each. Other than cluster of office buildings and dining hall, you are living literally in a forest for all other practical reasons. Katie, a veterinary doctor, who is studying about rabies among carnivores in tropical forests, had tranquilised a Lion next to the house of a research centre direc+-16+069.JPG)
tor Margaret Kinnaird.
Even I had a chilling experience during my stay here. One night, three elephants had blocked the door of the 'banda' I stayed in. Patrick, the security in charge of the research centre had a tough time moving the elephants from my way so that I could safely enter the banda and lock myself from inside. All through the night, the elephants were around. I was also used to occasional hauling of hyenas and other during nights.
Though the private ranches are in good shape – covered with bushes and green grass when it rains, denudation in the community ranches is visible. The debate on “How long the African forests can withhold the cattle grazing pressure,” is going on for a long time. The people, especially Maasais, are getting used to cash economy from their traditional cattle economy. Along with the cattle, goats and sheep are joining the herds, which have put extra pressure on the forests.
However, Siva put up an argument saying that the number of cattle has not gone up. Thanks to periodical drought, which wipes out 80 per cent of the cattle population and the people have to start from the scratch. But, he agrees that the population was going up and the people are trying to have more cattle.
The second problem is about the economic recession, which has affected tourism here. Unless the wildlife earns revenue, how can people conserve them?
Margaret is optimistic that a via media is always found during the crisis. “At the centre, we take up biodiversity monitoring of the region as well as research on a long term monitoring process. We are also experimenting on alternative grazing management, which is giving good results,’’ she said.
The centre has also tied up with the local community ranch on alternative grazing system. There are grazing zones and non-grazing zones. The difference between the landscapes is glaring, though there is occasional violation of non-grazing zones by the community. Out of 13 local county councils, nine have agreed to implement alternative grazing pattern and the centre has an outreach programme in the community ranches. Besides, the centre has conducted a census of 17 wildlife and five live stock in the region. The research is conducted on soil, termites, and trees to predators.
Margaret and her husband Tim O’ Brien, who is a scientist with Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), New York, have set up a camera trap to study the nocturnal wildlife and their land use pattern. Both have good experience in wildlife biology. Margaret trailed tiger in Indonesia for almost 13 years, but says that she could never sight a tiger in wild. She was in Somalia during ivory war and she has also done research on hornbills.
Even Tim is concerned over the future of wildlife, but refuses to buy the theory of dooms day predictors. “In Likipia, the population of predators is quite healthy and the camera trap results prove that. There are apprehensions that the predators, especially when they prey on cattle are persecuted and poisoned. That is a different story, but there is a positive side to it as well.’’
Tim points out at the experiments on wildlife tourism across Likipia, which is generating some revenue to the community. “At least 30 ranches are offering wildlife tourism and in different segments like walking, bikes and night safaris. This may be become the reason for conserving wildlife, despite the conflict,’’ he pointed out.
When asked about recession, Tim smiled. “In Kenya, wildlife tourism started in 1964, when the country got its independence. It has seen many such recessions and great depressions and has still survived. People have realised that wildlife is their long term trump card, which earns them revenue. They have learned to live with economic variations also,’’ he added.
Like any other ranches, cattle ranching is part of the Mpala experiment and Margaret is too fond of her cattle.
+-16+059.JPG)
this, periodical drought will have its own effect on the ecosystem.How do you conserve the grasslands so that the cattle and wildlife get their due share? What will be the effect of not allowing cattle grazing? What if the cattle is allowed to graze, but made to move fast from one area to another, so that there is no over grazing? What will be the effect of cutting trees in the bushes? Will it allow growth of more grass?
If such questions arises in India, one should try to find theoretical answers. But such experiments are going on here along with other researches like the impact of Grevy’s zebra on lion population, conservation pattern in community ranches, mapping the different topography through satellite pictures and so on. Name the research in wildlife conservation, the Mpala research and conservancy has it.
Interestingly, Mpala itself is a ranch property, which has been bought by Sam Small, a retired Royal Canada Army personnel in 1957. He handed over the property to his brother George Small, who wanted to use it for the benefit of Likipia district and conservation of wildlife in the area.
For a common man, the research centre may appear like a different world altogether. After travelling around 15 kms from Nyanuki, you don’t have an asphalted road and the world of ranches begin from there. The next 30 kms, you pass through various ranches, before reaching the research centre.
The ranch extends to around 250 sq kms and power is a distant dream here. The research centre depends on some solar panels and generator for power. Internet connection is through satellite and mobile network is absent. And, talk of road, it is does not exist for over 100 kms.
The researchers here live in either `bandas’ (a stone hut), located at a distance of around 20 meters each. Other than cluster of office buildings and dining hall, you are living literally in a forest for all other practical reasons. Katie, a veterinary doctor, who is studying about rabies among carnivores in tropical forests, had tranquilised a Lion next to the house of a research centre direc
+-16+069.JPG)
tor Margaret Kinnaird.Even I had a chilling experience during my stay here. One night, three elephants had blocked the door of the 'banda' I stayed in. Patrick, the security in charge of the research centre had a tough time moving the elephants from my way so that I could safely enter the banda and lock myself from inside. All through the night, the elephants were around. I was also used to occasional hauling of hyenas and other during nights.
Though the private ranches are in good shape – covered with bushes and green grass when it rains, denudation in the community ranches is visible. The debate on “How long the African forests can withhold the cattle grazing pressure,” is going on for a long time. The people, especially Maasais, are getting used to cash economy from their traditional cattle economy. Along with the cattle, goats and sheep are joining the herds, which have put extra pressure on the forests.
However, Siva put up an argument saying that the number of cattle has not gone up. Thanks to periodical drought, which wipes out 80 per cent of the cattle population and the people have to start from the scratch. But, he agrees that the population was going up and the people are trying to have more cattle.
The second problem is about the economic recession, which has affected tourism here. Unless the wildlife earns revenue, how can people conserve them?
Margaret is optimistic that a via media is always found during the crisis. “At the centre, we take up biodiversity monitoring of the region as well as research on a long term monitoring process. We are also experimenting on alternative grazing management, which is giving good results,’’ she said.
The centre has also tied up with the local community ranch on alternative grazing system. There are grazing zones and non-grazing zones. The difference between the landscapes is glaring, though there is occasional violation of non-grazing zones by the community. Out of 13 local county councils, nine have agreed to implement alternative grazing pattern and the centre has an outreach programme in the community ranches. Besides, the centre has conducted a census of 17 wildlife and five live stock in the region. The research is conducted on soil, termites, and trees to predators.
Margaret and her husband Tim O’ Brien, who is a scientist with Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), New York, have set up a camera trap to study the nocturnal wildlife and their land use pattern. Both have good experience in wildlife biology. Margaret trailed tiger in Indonesia for almost 13 years, but says that she could never sight a tiger in wild. She was in Somalia during ivory war and she has also done research on hornbills.
Even Tim is concerned over the future of wildlife, but refuses to buy the theory of dooms day predictors. “In Likipia, the population of predators is quite healthy and the camera trap results prove that. There are apprehensions that the predators, especially when they prey on cattle are persecuted and poisoned. That is a different story, but there is a positive side to it as well.’’
Tim points out at the experiments on wildlife tourism across Likipia, which is generating some revenue to the community. “At least 30 ranches are offering wildlife tourism and in different segments like walking, bikes and night safaris. This may be become the reason for conserving wildlife, despite the conflict,’’ he pointed out.
When asked about recession, Tim smiled. “In Kenya, wildlife tourism started in 1964, when the country got its independence. It has seen many such recessions and great depressions and has still survived. People have realised that wildlife is their long term trump card, which earns them revenue. They have learned to live with economic variations also,’’ he added.
Like any other ranches, cattle ranching is part of the Mpala experiment and Margaret is too fond of her cattle.
OL PAJETA
+-16+034.JPG)
OL PAJETA'S SUCCESS IN PRIVATE CONSERVANCY
When Siva suggested a visit to Ol Pajeta, I thought he was preparing me for a weekend stay in a five star resort. As he was explaining about the place, initially I was a little disappointed and was not sure how the economics worked here.
Sensing the disappointment on my face, Siva assured that I would enjoy the stay there and my travel would be incomplete without seeing the other aspect of Likipia. The private conservancy, where wildlife conservation is done by the ranch owners. Minutes after my arrival at Ol Pajeta, I realised that Siva was right and I would have missed something, if I had not visited the place.
The concpet of private conservancy may be unheard in India, but it is thriving and has worked well in some places of Likipia district. There may be over 30 private ranch owners, who have taken up this initiative and some of them are really working well.
Visiting Ol Pajeta will undo the preconceived notion that wildlife is a boring, scientific study,
with a lot of human-animal conflict. In a ranch, sprawling over 325 sq kms, it has all the big fives -- giraffe, bison, lion, leopard and rhinos. There are cheetahs too. It has a world class tourism facility thus leaving no tourist disappointed. In addition, it has many diversified activities like a Chimpanzee rehabilitation camp, conserving Angola breed of cattle and ranching as well.
When Siva suggested a visit to Ol Pajeta, I thought he was preparing me for a weekend stay in a five star resort. As he was explaining about the place, initially I was a little disappointed and was not sure how the economics worked here.
Sensing the disappointment on my face, Siva assured that I would enjoy the stay there and my travel would be incomplete without seeing the other aspect of Likipia. The private conservancy, where wildlife conservation is done by the ranch owners. Minutes after my arrival at Ol Pajeta, I realised that Siva was right and I would have missed something, if I had not visited the place.
The concpet of private conservancy may be unheard in India, but it is thriving and has worked well in some places of Likipia district. There may be over 30 private ranch owners, who have taken up this initiative and some of them are really working well.
Visiting Ol Pajeta will undo the preconceived notion that wildlife is a boring, scientific study,
with a lot of human-animal conflict. In a ranch, sprawling over 325 sq kms, it has all the big fives -- giraffe, bison, lion, leopard and rhinos. There are cheetahs too. It has a world class tourism facility thus leaving no tourist disappointed. In addition, it has many diversified activities like a Chimpanzee rehabilitation camp, conserving Angola breed of cattle and ranching as well.It is an interesting combination of public-private partnership. According to Ol Pajeta marketing Manager Sandra, animals belong to government and the land belongs to the ranch. They just look after the animals, so that it is not hunted. Ol Pajeta hires and pays the forest rangers.
You literally, live amidst the animals here. The Serena group of hotels has put up tents and at sweat waters, where animals and the tourists are just separated by a trench, which has a small electric fencing. There are two water holes, where animals keep visiting to drink water.
Apart from the day safari rounds, the hotel also offers night safari, which is not extended in the national parks. There is a unique lion tracking programme, where visitors can spend the entire morning with Ol Pajeta predator research team and there is guided bush walks and bird watching across the park. Those who wish can also have camel rides inside the park.
If you can afford, you can also stay at the Ol Pajeta house, a mansion built by Adnan Koshigi, a multi-millionaire Saudi gun dealer. He had formerly owned the ranch for some years. There are seasonal tented camps, which include Ol Pajeta bush camp, Rhino Porini camp and Kicheche camp.
But, tourism is not everything h
ere. In 1993, there was a negotiated agreement between Ol Pajeta, Kenya Wildlife Service and Jane Goodall Institute to set up a chimpanzee sanctuary at sweat waters. Today, there are 43 chimpanzees, which are hosted in two separate enclosures, which is one of the main tourism attractions of the place.
Besides, there are 300 registered boran cows, which is being bred for quality beef production. They live in a separate enclosure, but graze in the wild. The Ol Pajeta is also conserving Angola breed of cow, which is on the verge of extinction. These are originally from Uganda and over 100 cattle are preserved for semen collection from these breed of cattle.
This does not mean that Ol Pajeta is not facing human-animal conflict. The Kenya wildlife service had to shoot down four elephants, which were habitual crop raiders. Recently, when another elephant began raiding crops in the nearby communities, the authorities were alarmed. A radio collar, with mobile phone sim card has been fixed to an elephant named Kimani.
As Kimani starts heading towards nearby farms, the rangers will get a SMS on their mobile phone on the location of the elephant. They will drive the elephant back to the forest. It has been four months since Kimani has raided any farm. The happy news is that the number of Cheetahs and Lions are increasing in Ol Pajeta.
But maintaining a private conservancy is not easy. Sandra, Marketing chief of Ol
Pajeta says that it takes around $4000 to take care of one chimpanzee per year. ``We also have programmes to adopt chimpanzee and raise funds through donations. Many research on animals are being carried out, which cost a lot of money,” she added –
Despite constraints, Ol Pajeta has proved itself to be a success story in private conservancy history of Likipia.
17-12-08
You literally, live amidst the animals here. The Serena group of hotels has put up tents and at sweat waters, where animals and the tourists are just separated by a trench, which has a small electric fencing. There are two water holes, where animals keep visiting to drink water.
Apart from the day safari rounds, the hotel also offers night safari, which is not extended in the national parks. There is a unique lion tracking programme, where visitors can spend the entire morning with Ol Pajeta predator research team and there is guided bush walks and bird watching across the park. Those who wish can also have camel rides inside the park.
If you can afford, you can also stay at the Ol Pajeta house, a mansion built by Adnan Koshigi, a multi-millionaire Saudi gun dealer. He had formerly owned the ranch for some years. There are seasonal tented camps, which include Ol Pajeta bush camp, Rhino Porini camp and Kicheche camp.
But, tourism is not everything h
ere. In 1993, there was a negotiated agreement between Ol Pajeta, Kenya Wildlife Service and Jane Goodall Institute to set up a chimpanzee sanctuary at sweat waters. Today, there are 43 chimpanzees, which are hosted in two separate enclosures, which is one of the main tourism attractions of the place.Besides, there are 300 registered boran cows, which is being bred for quality beef production. They live in a separate enclosure, but graze in the wild. The Ol Pajeta is also conserving Angola breed of cow, which is on the verge of extinction. These are originally from Uganda and over 100 cattle are preserved for semen collection from these breed of cattle.
This does not mean that Ol Pajeta is not facing human-animal conflict. The Kenya wildlife service had to shoot down four elephants, which were habitual crop raiders. Recently, when another elephant began raiding crops in the nearby communities, the authorities were alarmed. A radio collar, with mobile phone sim card has been fixed to an elephant named Kimani.
As Kimani starts heading towards nearby farms, the rangers will get a SMS on their mobile phone on the location of the elephant. They will drive the elephant back to the forest. It has been four months since Kimani has raided any farm. The happy news is that the number of Cheetahs and Lions are increasing in Ol Pajeta.
But maintaining a private conservancy is not easy. Sandra, Marketing chief of Ol
Pajeta says that it takes around $4000 to take care of one chimpanzee per year. ``We also have programmes to adopt chimpanzee and raise funds through donations. Many research on animals are being carried out, which cost a lot of money,” she added –Despite constraints, Ol Pajeta has proved itself to be a success story in private conservancy history of Likipia.
17-12-08
Ol Pajeta
MAASAIS OF LIKIPIA
NOTHING TO FEED CHILDREN FOR 10 DAYS IN A MONTH
Eva, a research scholar from US works with the community in Likipia and her main concentration is with the governance among the Maasais. Her study includes the standard of living among the Maasais. A questionnaire prepared by her throws new light on the level of poverty among the Maasais of the region.Apart from the private ranch owners, Maasais hold other ranches on community basis. The land rights and boundaries are still in dispute. These community ranches were passed on to them after Kenya's independence in 1964. Many ranch owners left the land and went back to UK, which the local Maasais occupied.
As we drove outside the Mpala campus, which runs up to around 250 sq kms, I realised that we were entering a total degraded area. The 'bomas' were seen all along as we headed to a small town, which is smaller than any village in India, may be 45 minutes to one hour drive from a boma. The dispensary and a police station are located in these towns, which is nothing but a bunch of small zinc sheet houses.
Electricity and road are unheard of and one has to drive on the muddy tracks to re
ach the destination. There were many people, who hitch hiked the jeep and Eva had the patience to stop as he saw everyone, wish them and take them along. James, the local guide for Eva, made most of the translation between the local language – Swahili, while Eva managed to speak most of it. I was just trying to pick up from them as to what was happening around.Our first meeting was at a distance of one and a half hour drive, where we met George, the Chairman of the local Maasai council. All the Masais will have a Christian name as well as Maasai name. George was around 40 years and was heading a community of over 1,200 member community. However, only 300, including children live in the region, while the others have migrated to hills, looking for better grazing land for their cattle. Eva was taking the help from heads of each Masai local community for her research as well as generating them part time jobs for them.
George’s sister, an old lady, tried to strike a conversation with me and I was looking at James for some translation. A moment later, James burst into laughter, while the old lady went on and on, complaining something about me.
James explained to me later that the old lady was refusing to believe that I was a foreigner. The dark complexion made her to believe that even I was from Kenya, but had not learnt the local language, Swahili. James had a tough time in convincing her that I was from a country called India. What a funny instance that was!
On the way back, we met two boys, who had completed a model survey of a boma, based on Eva’s questionnaire. The result was horrifying and a family could not offer the children anything to eat for 10 days in a month. Another four days, they managed to give something to eat, but the children complained that they were still hungry.
The bomas here will have two to five huts within the fence. You see children everywhere, playing around or squatting in a corner. The huts are dark inside, with fire lit in its centre. A cot on one side, little animals like sheep, goat and chicken on the other side of the fire. They co-exist. ``Most of the people live on the aid provided by the government, NGOs and UN. This year, the rain was not good and the government was distributing maize flour in this area. The conditions are pretty bad and being from US, I was shocked to see this. Now, I am used to all these things,’’ Eva said.
However, Eva is still recovering from the shock when she saw `genital cutting' of a young Maasai girl. ``I knew about it, but it was more than I could take,'' she nodded her head. ``Even somethings keep giving me shocks, but I have learnt to recover from the shock,'' she laughed.
At Kajabe Maasai community, the newly elected Chairman Daniel is also the headmaster at the local school. He had a big boma, which had around 10 huts. Besides, there were four cement houses, with zinc sheets on them. Even his brother’s family lived in the same boma and there were more than 20 children, within age group of 10 years all over. Two of the cement houses belonged to him, as he has two wives.
Daniel bargained well and managed to increase the number of employment with Eva to 10. Eva was planning to hire only five or six. When the final list came, the name of Daniel’s wife and nephew prominently figured in the list.
The issue here is that the Maasais live in the community ranches. Most of them keep migrating to hills, in search of grazing land for their livestock. From nomadics, a century ago, they have become semi-nomadic. Earlier, Maasais never traded cash, they only traded cattle. During the last 10 years, the Maasais are slowly getting used to cash economy and sheep and goats started joining their livestock.
This seems to be beginning of the problem here. The grazing pattern of goats and sheep is entirely different from that of cattle. Goat and sheep can just survive on anything and can be devastating to any habitat. The conservation groups are trying hard to convince the Maasais about over grazing, which is leading for soil erosion. New species of cactus are growing around the area. Maasais believe that nothing would grow, if that particular cactus starts growing on the land.
The conservationists have convinced nine of the 13 local Maasai communities to practice sustainable land usage. There are grazing and non-grazing areas and non-grazing areas have good grass. But the livestock does not understand that it is a non-grazing area and when they enter into such area, the owner turns a blind eye, until someone catches him red handed.
On the way back, J
ames asked us to visit his boma, where a celebration was taking place. It was a celebration of elder generation handing over responsibilities to younger generations. About 20 unmarried youths will get the status of warriors. It was a colourful event and the handing over ceremony resembled a ragging scene for juniors in the college hostels. Those graduated from the warrior position were singing, while the new warriors had to dance. The seniors would not stop and unless they stopped singing, the new warriors could not stop dancing.
Inside the boma, women folk had flocked together in one corner and were singing. Their dressing style was different from Maasais of Mara banks, but equally colourful. The children were fascinated with the camera as well as Eva’s Land Cruiser.
As we headed back to Mpala, the kids were waving till they lost sight of us. Though they looked happy, Eva said, ``They are too week to smile properly. That makes me sad.’’
11-12-2008
Mpala
At Kajabe Maasai community, the newly elected Chairman Daniel is also the headmaster at the local school. He had a big boma, which had around 10 huts. Besides, there were four cement houses, with zinc sheets on them. Even his brother’s family lived in the same boma and there were more than 20 children, within age group of 10 years all over. Two of the cement houses belonged to him, as he has two wives.
Daniel bargained well and managed to increase the number of employment with Eva to 10. Eva was planning to hire only five or six. When the final list came, the name of Daniel’s wife and nephew prominently figured in the list.
The issue here is that the Maasais live in the community ranches. Most of them keep migrating to hills, in search of grazing land for their livestock. From nomadics, a century ago, they have become semi-nomadic. Earlier, Maasais never traded cash, they only traded cattle. During the last 10 years, the Maasais are slowly getting used to cash economy and sheep and goats started joining their livestock.
This seems to be beginning of the problem here. The grazing pattern of goats and sheep is entirely different from that of cattle. Goat and sheep can just survive on anything and can be devastating to any habitat. The conservation groups are trying hard to convince the Maasais about over grazing, which is leading for soil erosion. New species of cactus are growing around the area. Maasais believe that nothing would grow, if that particular cactus starts growing on the land.
The conservationists have convinced nine of the 13 local Maasai communities to practice sustainable land usage. There are grazing and non-grazing areas and non-grazing areas have good grass. But the livestock does not understand that it is a non-grazing area and when they enter into such area, the owner turns a blind eye, until someone catches him red handed.
On the way back, J
ames asked us to visit his boma, where a celebration was taking place. It was a celebration of elder generation handing over responsibilities to younger generations. About 20 unmarried youths will get the status of warriors. It was a colourful event and the handing over ceremony resembled a ragging scene for juniors in the college hostels. Those graduated from the warrior position were singing, while the new warriors had to dance. The seniors would not stop and unless they stopped singing, the new warriors could not stop dancing.Inside the boma, women folk had flocked together in one corner and were singing. Their dressing style was different from Maasais of Mara banks, but equally colourful. The children were fascinated with the camera as well as Eva’s Land Cruiser.
As we headed back to Mpala, the kids were waving till they lost sight of us. Though they looked happy, Eva said, ``They are too week to smile properly. That makes me sad.’’
11-12-2008
Mpala
CATTLE BATTLE
A BATTLE OVER CATTLE IN THE MAASAI LANDS
Like India, Kenya is also a land of many ethnic groups. It is not that Maasais are the largest tribe of Kenya. They may be one of the micro minorities of the population. However, they are better known to the outside world as they are charismatic and known to be legendary warriors. Their dressing looks stunning.
Besides, Maasais live in secluded places, looking for fodder availability to their cattle. Their wealth is measured with the size of livestock holdings. The other tribes like Kukuyis, who are the largest, have merged with the mainstream society, while Maasais have not.
There is a striking resemblance between the Maasai Mara region as well as the Likipia district. The two areas are located in diametrically opposite directions of the country. They are on different sides of the equator line. But, there is absence of the government in both the places. While in Maasai Mara, it is an agreement between the local county and the government that the local Maasai county will look after the area, but in Likipia, the government is just absent.
The problem with Likipia district started in 1900, when Likipia district was formally demarcated by the then imperialistic government. Most of the British, who arrived at Likipia, saw a potential cattle raising ranch in the vast grasslands. The locals, which included Maasais and Samburus were driven out of their homeland to the reserves and the ranches were taken on lease basis. Most of the lease ranges from 99 years to 999 years.
After the Kenyan independence in 1966, some of the British ranch owners left the country. These ranches were taken over by the Maasai communities for grazing their cattle. There were clashes between many tribes like Samburu and Pakots. However, the issues remained unresolved.
At this moment, Maasais own the land here and rest enjoy them on lease basis. Though there is a rule that foreigners cannot own the rural land, there are a lot of loopholes in the law. They invest in rural land by forming a Kenya company or forming a trust. Then, they get into tourism business in these lands.
The unsettled land issues has left large chunk of Likipia district ungoverned. Development is never heard in these areas. Just 20 kms after Nyanuki, a proper road ceases to exist. As one travels toward north-western side of the country, government is unheard of. Even today, Samburu and Pakots fight in a government land near Lake Baringo region. The two tribes have always fought over cattle and the battles are bloody ones. The fight usually starts with one tribe stealing livestock of other. The other retaliates with AK-47 and exchange of fire is common. There will be mortality, but no one cares to complain to the police or the government.
But, that does not mean it is an unsafe place to go. It is safe for anyone, barring these two communities. They are not bothered about outsiders, unless someone is caught in the cross fire. Let alone other modes of communication, there is no road connectivity in these areas.
The biggest challenge for the district is whether the district ecosystem can be restored. On one side, the livestock is denuding the community land, while on the other side; charcoal production in the name of eco-burning is posing a big threat to the entire ecosystem. The land has so much wildlife, which gets into conflict point at times. Either the livestock is killed by a predator or elephants are poached for tusks.
``It is very difficult to handle the situation. The wildlife has to pay the people, if they have to resort to conservation. Otherwise, their living itself will be at stake. That is the reason behind tourism being promoted in a big way, so that the local people get some revenue,’’ said Siva Sundaresan.
Even Eva points out at the number of sheep and goats being added to the livestock, which is contributing more towards land degradation. ``They have slowly started adapting to cash economy. Unlike cattle, goats and sheep can survive adverse conditions and still put on weight. If the cattle do not put on weight, they are useless in the beef market. This poses as a new challenge towards conservation efforts,’’ she pointed out.
When the British ruled Kenya, the Maasais were nomadic. They went around the country, looking for grazing field for their cattle. After they left, they have become semi-nomadic. Not all the Maasais live where their community family lives. When the rain is scarce in the plain region, they move towards mountains. Once it rains in plains, they return to their bomas.
At any given point of time, only 30 per cent of the Maasai family lives in their community. That itself is more than what the arid land of Likipia can take.
Mpala
12-12-2008
Like India, Kenya is also a land of many ethnic groups. It is not that Maasais are the largest tribe of Kenya. They may be one of the micro minorities of the population. However, they are better known to the outside world as they are charismatic and known to be legendary warriors. Their dressing looks stunning.
Besides, Maasais live in secluded places, looking for fodder availability to their cattle. Their wealth is measured with the size of livestock holdings. The other tribes like Kukuyis, who are the largest, have merged with the mainstream society, while Maasais have not.
There is a striking resemblance between the Maasai Mara region as well as the Likipia district. The two areas are located in diametrically opposite directions of the country. They are on different sides of the equator line. But, there is absence of the government in both the places. While in Maasai Mara, it is an agreement between the local county and the government that the local Maasai county will look after the area, but in Likipia, the government is just absent.
The problem with Likipia district started in 1900, when Likipia district was formally demarcated by the then imperialistic government. Most of the British, who arrived at Likipia, saw a potential cattle raising ranch in the vast grasslands. The locals, which included Maasais and Samburus were driven out of their homeland to the reserves and the ranches were taken on lease basis. Most of the lease ranges from 99 years to 999 years.
After the Kenyan independence in 1966, some of the British ranch owners left the country. These ranches were taken over by the Maasai communities for grazing their cattle. There were clashes between many tribes like Samburu and Pakots. However, the issues remained unresolved.
At this moment, Maasais own the land here and rest enjoy them on lease basis. Though there is a rule that foreigners cannot own the rural land, there are a lot of loopholes in the law. They invest in rural land by forming a Kenya company or forming a trust. Then, they get into tourism business in these lands.
The unsettled land issues has left large chunk of Likipia district ungoverned. Development is never heard in these areas. Just 20 kms after Nyanuki, a proper road ceases to exist. As one travels toward north-western side of the country, government is unheard of. Even today, Samburu and Pakots fight in a government land near Lake Baringo region. The two tribes have always fought over cattle and the battles are bloody ones. The fight usually starts with one tribe stealing livestock of other. The other retaliates with AK-47 and exchange of fire is common. There will be mortality, but no one cares to complain to the police or the government.
But, that does not mean it is an unsafe place to go. It is safe for anyone, barring these two communities. They are not bothered about outsiders, unless someone is caught in the cross fire. Let alone other modes of communication, there is no road connectivity in these areas.
The biggest challenge for the district is whether the district ecosystem can be restored. On one side, the livestock is denuding the community land, while on the other side; charcoal production in the name of eco-burning is posing a big threat to the entire ecosystem. The land has so much wildlife, which gets into conflict point at times. Either the livestock is killed by a predator or elephants are poached for tusks.
``It is very difficult to handle the situation. The wildlife has to pay the people, if they have to resort to conservation. Otherwise, their living itself will be at stake. That is the reason behind tourism being promoted in a big way, so that the local people get some revenue,’’ said Siva Sundaresan.
Even Eva points out at the number of sheep and goats being added to the livestock, which is contributing more towards land degradation. ``They have slowly started adapting to cash economy. Unlike cattle, goats and sheep can survive adverse conditions and still put on weight. If the cattle do not put on weight, they are useless in the beef market. This poses as a new challenge towards conservation efforts,’’ she pointed out.
When the British ruled Kenya, the Maasais were nomadic. They went around the country, looking for grazing field for their cattle. After they left, they have become semi-nomadic. Not all the Maasais live where their community family lives. When the rain is scarce in the plain region, they move towards mountains. Once it rains in plains, they return to their bomas.
At any given point of time, only 30 per cent of the Maasai family lives in their community. That itself is more than what the arid land of Likipia can take.
Mpala
12-12-2008
COLONIAL RANCHES
RANCHES OF LIKIPIA
Till such time I began travelling with Siva, all I knew was that he was doing a research on Grevy’s zebra in the area, at a research centre called Mpala. Grevy’s zebra are same as the regular zebra, but the stripes are different and coser. Ther are found only in central-northern Kenya.
Likipia forms the beginning of the northern part of the Kenya, but technically located in the central province. As we drove, I was exposed to an entirely new world, which I had not even dreamt of. Barring Nyanuki and nearby places, government is virtually non existent here.
Mpala is an hour's drive from Nyanuki. During the British rule, the entire area was converted into big ranches and the local people were driven to wildlife reserves. Even today, the ranches are owned by rich whites and they are private holdings. The extent of each ranche is unbelievably big. There are ranches as big as 370 sq kms and even there are some small holdings too. This has left behind smaller patches of few community ranches for the locals.
Like elsewhere in rural Kenya, livestock is the livelihood of locals here. The question is about grazing. While the ranch owners can manage to graze their cattle in their own ranches, the others have to depend on community ranches to graze the cattle.
There is a mix up of wildlife and livestock in the area. The wildlife is seen in many private ranches and some does not allow wildlife to enter their area. “This person is a friend of mine, but does not allow the wildlife to enter his ranch. He just shoots it down,’’ said Siva, as we passed a well fenced huge ranch.
But, not all the ranch owners are like that. The owner of Ol Jogi ranch is proud of black rhinos inside his ranch. He has kept armed guards to ensure that the poachers do not enter his premises. He does not allow any one inside the ranch, including tourists. It is just for his private guests.
Another ranch Ol Pejeta, which is the largest among the ranches, has a Chimpanzee rescue centre run by noted wildlife conservationist Jane Godall. The tourists are allowed here and can stay back. It is part of their tourism business. The Mpala research centre itself is in a private ranch, converted into a trust. The entire wildlife conservation research in the area is being conducted from this centre.
However, the issues in this area are very complicated. As we drive from Nyanuki, there are literally no roads after 20 km. The motato, the local transport, also stops at that point. After that, it is large tracts of forests, owned by private people or community and they are mainly used for cattle grazing.
Most of the private ranches are well fenced and the existence of wildlife depends on the passion of the ranch owner. In community ranches, it is the cattle first. Most of the community ranches are over grazed and lands are degraded. The local administration system has divided the area into grazing and non-grazing areas, but when the fodder is scarce, there will be little difference between the two. The red patches of land amidst the trees stand testimony to the amount of land degradation due to over grazing in this region.
Though the ranch owners does not allow local people inside, they get into a lot of community works like sponsorship for students, building schools or even running small dispensaries. The deal with the community leaders is that they should not graze the cattle or steal anything in the ranch. Once the promise is broken, the ranch owner threatens to withdraw the facilities.
``It is a mutual benefit and acts as security to the ranch owners,’’ Siva pointed out.
But the biggest problem here is the wildlife conservation. The locals are unforgiving, when a predator attacks their livestock. A group of them will barge into the area and kill whichever predator comes on the way. Though it is against the law in Kenya, no one questions. There is no government to question either.
But the things are not as pathetic as it appears. The conservation efforts started here around 25 years ago. There problems that existed are being addressed stage by stage. One of the first local groups into conservation included Likipia Wildlife Forum (LWF) and Northern Rangelands Trust (NRT).
NRT is a membership-based organisation, where ranch owners become members and start implementing wildlife conservation in their area. The organisation gives the logistic support to these ranch owners. Besides the Mpala research centre and African Wildlife Foundation (AWF), some private conservation ranches like Ol Pejeta, Lewa and foreign zoos are also working in the area.
Interestingly, 100 years ago, there were no elephants in the area and 40 years ago, there were no Grevy’s zebras. Twenty years ago, the wild dogs were not heard of at all. They are here over a period of time, and the habitat has changed from being open grassland to full of trees. But, there are growing problems too. During the last 10 years, land degradation has been an issue, especially with community ranches. Though the non-grazing areas look good, the grazing areas are denuded by over grazing, especially by the sheep and goats.
It is said that Likipia has large mammal in abundance anywhere in east Africa, except in Sarangetti-Masai Mara enclosures. Yet, there is no formal protected area here.
Mpala research centre
11-12-2008
LIKIPIA DISTRICT
DRIVING DOWN TO NYANUKI
The return journey from Massai Mara on a single-engine aircraft
was not as exciting as the onward journey. It was a different experience. Drivers here do everything for you. - from loading the luggage to distributing mints and later flying the aircraft. The flight journey was over within 45 minutes. I decided to drive down to my next destination, Nyanuki, where I had to meet my friend Siva Sundaresan. He lived in a place called Mpala, doing research on wildlife.
My cab driver was named Prince, friendly chap. He found it strange that a tourist was sitting in the front seat. The drive was enjoyable. The outskirts of Nairobi looked very similar to Bangalore – resembling places like KR Puram or Banashankari Ring Roads. Trucks loaded with sand were waiting for customers and there are markets at the end of the roads.
Nyanuki is around 265 kms from Nairobi and the roads are neat and lovely. The two track roads reminded me of our Mysore-Bangalore highway. The only difference is that there are no road dividers. Trees and a grass carpet lining divide the road into two tracks. In some places, even maize in between the strip. Throughout the highway, the traffic police were visible, catching the highway traffic offenders.
Prince spoke to me about a whole range of subjects, including his Sikh friends in Nairobi. According to him, the Sikhs were very rude and they beat up people when they are angry. He also admitted that they were very good at heart.
During the conversation, I realised that there were several words that are commonly used both in Kenya and India. These words have their origin from Arabic language. Dawa means medicine, bandooka means guns, kalama means pen and thayara means ready and so on. I was surprised.
There were lot of surprises to tcach glimpse of during my journey. There were telephone poles along the road, but no wires fixed to it. Prince explained me that they people no more got telephone connection through wires. It is na old system,” he said.. The advent of mobile phones has simply thrown out the old system. Even the government run telephones are given through either the wireless in local loop (WLL) or mobile handsets. These run on CDMA technology and the entire land line system has been discarded.
On the way, I noticed some of the fruit shops unattended by people. There were charcoal, packed in plastic bags, left on the road side. Prince had a story to tell about these shops and charcoal sacks. “The area is inhabited by Kamba tribes. They are masters in witchcraft and no one dares to steal anything from them. If anybody tried to steal a fruit or a charcoal bag, they cannot move out of the place. The Kamba will kill them. If you want to take anything, you have to keep the money and take it. They don’t remove the fruits even during night,’’ Prince explained.
The story sounded interesting and Prince appeared to have been totally convinced about the witchcraft power of the Kambas. He also said that the Kambas burn people and sacrifice them to get witchcraft powers.
Further on our way, we passed through a hilly region, which, according to Prince, is full of highway robbers. It was not advisable to travel during the night, as the robbers were very cruel. This area is a small patch of 10 kilometres.
After this stretch, the beautiful view of Mt Kenya, the only snow covered mountain in Africa, drew my attention. It was a spectacuar sight and driving this stretch is the most enjoyable one. The pea, which stands tall at a height of 17,000 meters, is surrounded by Mt. Kenya National Park. I was not sure if I could get time to visit the area and have a closer look at the mountain.
As we approached Nyanuki, Prince warned me that we would be passing the equator line. I got my compass ready, and as we passed the line, it turned a full circle. The north and south were diametrically opposite across the line. My geography lessons as student came to my mind.
Ten minutes later, we reached Nyanuki. Though Nyanuki is one of the top 15 cities in Kenya, it is not bigger than any taluk head quarters in India. The main road has got all modern facilities like multi-national banks, offices, hospitals, pubs and internet parlours. But the localities right behind the main road reminds you of a village.
After a halt for five minutes, I met Siva and both us drove his Land Cruiser Discovery towards Mpala.
Nyanuki
09-12-2008
The return journey from Massai Mara on a single-engine aircraft
was not as exciting as the onward journey. It was a different experience. Drivers here do everything for you. - from loading the luggage to distributing mints and later flying the aircraft. The flight journey was over within 45 minutes. I decided to drive down to my next destination, Nyanuki, where I had to meet my friend Siva Sundaresan. He lived in a place called Mpala, doing research on wildlife.My cab driver was named Prince, friendly chap. He found it strange that a tourist was sitting in the front seat. The drive was enjoyable. The outskirts of Nairobi looked very similar to Bangalore – resembling places like KR Puram or Banashankari Ring Roads. Trucks loaded with sand were waiting for customers and there are markets at the end of the roads.
Nyanuki is around 265 kms from Nairobi and the roads are neat and lovely. The two track roads reminded me of our Mysore-Bangalore highway. The only difference is that there are no road dividers. Trees and a grass carpet lining divide the road into two tracks. In some places, even maize in between the strip. Throughout the highway, the traffic police were visible, catching the highway traffic offenders.
Prince spoke to me about a whole range of subjects, including his Sikh friends in Nairobi. According to him, the Sikhs were very rude and they beat up people when they are angry. He also admitted that they were very good at heart.
During the conversation, I realised that there were several words that are commonly used both in Kenya and India. These words have their origin from Arabic language. Dawa means medicine, bandooka means guns, kalama means pen and thayara means ready and so on. I was surprised.
There were lot of surprises to tcach glimpse of during my journey. There were telephone poles along the road, but no wires fixed to it. Prince explained me that they people no more got telephone connection through wires. It is na old system,” he said.. The advent of mobile phones has simply thrown out the old system. Even the government run telephones are given through either the wireless in local loop (WLL) or mobile handsets. These run on CDMA technology and the entire land line system has been discarded.
On the way, I noticed some of the fruit shops unattended by people. There were charcoal, packed in plastic bags, left on the road side. Prince had a story to tell about these shops and charcoal sacks. “The area is inhabited by Kamba tribes. They are masters in witchcraft and no one dares to steal anything from them. If anybody tried to steal a fruit or a charcoal bag, they cannot move out of the place. The Kamba will kill them. If you want to take anything, you have to keep the money and take it. They don’t remove the fruits even during night,’’ Prince explained.
The story sounded interesting and Prince appeared to have been totally convinced about the witchcraft power of the Kambas. He also said that the Kambas burn people and sacrifice them to get witchcraft powers.
Further on our way, we passed through a hilly region, which, according to Prince, is full of highway robbers. It was not advisable to travel during the night, as the robbers were very cruel. This area is a small patch of 10 kilometres.
After this stretch, the beautiful view of Mt Kenya, the only snow covered mountain in Africa, drew my attention. It was a spectacuar sight and driving this stretch is the most enjoyable one. The pea, which stands tall at a height of 17,000 meters, is surrounded by Mt. Kenya National Park. I was not sure if I could get time to visit the area and have a closer look at the mountain.
As we approached Nyanuki, Prince warned me that we would be passing the equator line. I got my compass ready, and as we passed the line, it turned a full circle. The north and south were diametrically opposite across the line. My geography lessons as student came to my mind.
Ten minutes later, we reached Nyanuki. Though Nyanuki is one of the top 15 cities in Kenya, it is not bigger than any taluk head quarters in India. The main road has got all modern facilities like multi-national banks, offices, hospitals, pubs and internet parlours. But the localities right behind the main road reminds you of a village.
After a halt for five minutes, I met Siva and both us drove his Land Cruiser Discovery towards Mpala.
Nyanuki
09-12-2008
AFRICAN SAFARI
JUST DRIVE, THEY WILL TRACK YOU
If you are used to tracking a tiger in Indian forests, tracking animals in Masai Mara is a child’s play. All you got t
o do is to just drive and the animals will be passing by you.
The herbivores and birds are everywhere. They roam around freely around the resorts and even near the ‘bomas’ (the fence around the houses of Maasais). However, they would not venture inside as the premises are fenced. Animals crossing the airstrips is a common sight.
On the first day of our safari, Moosa took us to a wide patch of grassland, just next to the resort. Within minutes we were surrounded by giraffes, zebras, five to six types of antelopes, water hogs and wilderbeestes. Slowly, one or two Hyenas showed up, but disappeared in the bushes.
As we drove further, Moosa asked the driver to move towards a bush. They were hoping to track a lion in the bush, but there was no sign of it. As the jeep backed up, the driver noticed something inside the bush, and he was right. It was a lion cub. “The mother might have gone in search of food,” he said. We spotted two more cubs in a nearby den. They were apprehensive of coming out due to the sound of the jeep.
Aft
er travelling for over a kilometre, w
e spotted another safari jeep parked near a bush. The driver rushed there, and there was a real action. A fully grown male lion was desperately trying to mate with a lioness in vain. The lioness was not cooperative and the male was getting impatient. The drama went on for over 15 minutes, and the male decided to give up. It was an unusual sight for us. Both the lions were resting as if the two jeeps never existed around them.
After sometime, the two lions suddenly became alert and started staring towards the road we came. We wondered if they were looking at us. But when we turned back, we saw a Maasai running on the road and another Maasai was pushing a cycle further down the road. “Don’t worry, even lions know that he is a Maasai and will not bother about them,” Moosa joked.
For Maasais, lions are not as dangerous as the Hyenas. I was shocked to hear this. There was an interesting incident. When we were in a Maasai village, a youth, sporting scratch marks on his neck and legs, told us that Hyenas had attacked him a fortnight ago. Even Shailesh Patel had a similar story to tell. A safari jeep spotted a Maasai woman being attacked by two Hyenas. The driver straight drove near the spot and rescued the woman, who was badly injured on her hands and legs. Luckily, the Hyenas did not get an opportunity to catch neck of the woman, thus she survived. The tourists in the jeep asked the driver to take her to a hospital and the Maasais were moved by the gesture of the tourists.
Though funny and awkward looking, Hyenas are strong and courageous. When they want to scavenge, they don’t mind even taking a group of lions head on and snatch the kill. Their jaws are so strong that they eat the bones of the animals as well. We were stunned to learn about the strengths of the Hyenas.
The following day, our safari tour was packed with action. Less than half an hour of our drive, we spotted a small leopard and began following it. Strangely, a herd of guzzles also started following the leopard. We senses of some activity around and started scanning the entire area as the leopard began moving towards a particular tree.
On the top of the tree, there was a female leopard with the carcass of a guzzle, the two had killed just a while ago. As we moved towards the tree, the leopard climbed half of the tree and began waiting for its turn to feast on the catch. After 20 minutes or so, the female made its way for the male to have its share. Meanwhile, we saw two Hyenas sitting nearby, waiting for the leopards to drop some bones.
All the safari jeeps started moving towards the tree to catch the glimpse of this rare sight. It was really a dream come true to see such a fascinating activity in the wild. All these days, I had seen such incidents on Animal Planet. We decided to move on further, and only to find another ‘wild activity’. We came across a young male lion trying to flirt with a female lion. Our driver was not convinced with just that. He signalled of something more for us. After 15 minutes, he drove around a bush. He was right, amidst the bush cover, we could see three lions trying to eat something. It was only after sometime, we realised that they had killed a wilderbeeste.
After an hour, as we were driving back on the same route, we saw the jeeps still surrounding the tree where the leopards were enjoying their prey. As we approached the tree, the female leopard came down. It was followed by the male leopard, with the caracass in its mouth. The leopards looked much disturbed with the presence of tourists, that they decided to change the place of their meal.
As the tourists followed the two leopards, we decided to move in a different direction.
We headed to Rhino park, which is in the fringes of the main national park. The rhinos have become extinct in Maasai Mara and many parts of Kenya. As a conservation effort, the Kenya government has procured three rhinos from South Africa and is breeding them in an enclosure, guarded by forest rangers. A cute 10-month old baby rhino was the main attraction at the time of our visit.
During my three-day stay at Maasai Mara, the Cheetah eluded me. I wanted to see the magnificent hunter in flesh and blood, if not in action. Even Moosa was not very promising whenever I asked about Cheetah. He had seen a Cheetah a month ago and I realised that the animal was as elusive as a tiger in Indian forests.
Masai Mara
08-12-2008
If you are used to tracking a tiger in Indian forests, tracking animals in Masai Mara is a child’s play. All you got t
o do is to just drive and the animals will be passing by you.The herbivores and birds are everywhere. They roam around freely around the resorts and even near the ‘bomas’ (the fence around the houses of Maasais). However, they would not venture inside as the premises are fenced. Animals crossing the airstrips is a common sight.
On the first day of our safari, Moosa took us to a wide patch of grassland, just next to the resort. Within minutes we were surrounded by giraffes, zebras, five to six types of antelopes, water hogs and wilderbeestes. Slowly, one or two Hyenas showed up, but disappeared in the bushes.
As we drove further, Moosa asked the driver to move towards a bush. They were hoping to track a lion in the bush, but there was no sign of it. As the jeep backed up, the driver noticed something inside the bush, and he was right. It was a lion cub. “The mother might have gone in search of food,” he said. We spotted two more cubs in a nearby den. They were apprehensive of coming out due to the sound of the jeep.
Aft
er travelling for over a kilometre, w
e spotted another safari jeep parked near a bush. The driver rushed there, and there was a real action. A fully grown male lion was desperately trying to mate with a lioness in vain. The lioness was not cooperative and the male was getting impatient. The drama went on for over 15 minutes, and the male decided to give up. It was an unusual sight for us. Both the lions were resting as if the two jeeps never existed around them.After sometime, the two lions suddenly became alert and started staring towards the road we came. We wondered if they were looking at us. But when we turned back, we saw a Maasai running on the road and another Maasai was pushing a cycle further down the road. “Don’t worry, even lions know that he is a Maasai and will not bother about them,” Moosa joked.
For Maasais, lions are not as dangerous as the Hyenas. I was shocked to hear this. There was an interesting incident. When we were in a Maasai village, a youth, sporting scratch marks on his neck and legs, told us that Hyenas had attacked him a fortnight ago. Even Shailesh Patel had a similar story to tell. A safari jeep spotted a Maasai woman being attacked by two Hyenas. The driver straight drove near the spot and rescued the woman, who was badly injured on her hands and legs. Luckily, the Hyenas did not get an opportunity to catch neck of the woman, thus she survived. The tourists in the jeep asked the driver to take her to a hospital and the Maasais were moved by the gesture of the tourists.
Though funny and awkward looking, Hyenas are strong and courageous. When they want to scavenge, they don’t mind even taking a group of lions head on and snatch the kill. Their jaws are so strong that they eat the bones of the animals as well. We were stunned to learn about the strengths of the Hyenas.
The following day, our safari tour was packed with action. Less than half an hour of our drive, we spotted a small leopard and began following it. Strangely, a herd of guzzles also started following the leopard. We senses of some activity around and started scanning the entire area as the leopard began moving towards a particular tree.
On the top of the tree, there was a female leopard with the carcass of a guzzle, the two had killed just a while ago. As we moved towards the tree, the leopard climbed half of the tree and began waiting for its turn to feast on the catch. After 20 minutes or so, the female made its way for the male to have its share. Meanwhile, we saw two Hyenas sitting nearby, waiting for the leopards to drop some bones.
All the safari jeeps started moving towards the tree to catch the glimpse of this rare sight. It was really a dream come true to see such a fascinating activity in the wild. All these days, I had seen such incidents on Animal Planet. We decided to move on further, and only to find another ‘wild activity’. We came across a young male lion trying to flirt with a female lion. Our driver was not convinced with just that. He signalled of something more for us. After 15 minutes, he drove around a bush. He was right, amidst the bush cover, we could see three lions trying to eat something. It was only after sometime, we realised that they had killed a wilderbeeste.
After an hour, as we were driving back on the same route, we saw the jeeps still surrounding the tree where the leopards were enjoying their prey. As we approached the tree, the female leopard came down. It was followed by the male leopard, with the caracass in its mouth. The leopards looked much disturbed with the presence of tourists, that they decided to change the place of their meal.
As the tourists followed the two leopards, we decided to move in a different direction.
We headed to Rhino park, which is in the fringes of the main national park. The rhinos have become extinct in Maasai Mara and many parts of Kenya. As a conservation effort, the Kenya government has procured three rhinos from South Africa and is breeding them in an enclosure, guarded by forest rangers. A cute 10-month old baby rhino was the main attraction at the time of our visit.
During my three-day stay at Maasai Mara, the Cheetah eluded me. I wanted to see the magnificent hunter in flesh and blood, if not in action. Even Moosa was not very promising whenever I asked about Cheetah. He had seen a Cheetah a month ago and I realised that the animal was as elusive as a tiger in Indian forests.
Masai Mara
08-12-2008
ASIANS IN KENYA
ASIANS ARE AN INTEGRAL PART OF KENYA
On the third day of my stay in David Livingstone resort, I received a dinner invitation from four Indian guests. Manager Shailesh Patel formally invited me, but I was apprehensive. When I realised that two of them had settled in Kenya, while other two were their guests, I made up my mind to join them.
It was only after I met Harish Patel, I realised that the resort was being run by a Gujarati and the other person Vinod Hirani was running a tours and travel business at Nairobi. The two others were from Bhuj in Gujarat and they had just visited Patel.
Even Vinod’s was interesting story. He was born in Uganda and brought up there itself during the initial years of his child hood. Then they migrated to Kenya, but his father could not withstand the Nairobi weather. The family returned to Gujrat, but Vinod returned to Nairobi and started his travels business.
Harish is the second generation in Kenya, as his father had migrated to Nairobi way back in 1920. He also runs a property development business which is doing quite well. Born and brought up in Kenya, Patel has no intention to get back to India.
``I visit India once in three or four months. The people here are simple and humble. You just take them into confidence, they will do anything for you,’’ he says.
The Asians in Kenya are over 120-years old. They arrived in small boats through Mombasa. Mostly for laying railway lines in Africa. Among the 3,00,000 Asians here, there are nearly 80,000 Indians, who are into cross section of business. Construction is a big business, followed by hotels and tourism. But, the Asian community has made its mark in all sectors like health, retailing and what not.
Herin Bangera was my first Indian origin contact in Kenya. Though I had not seen him, he had given me the contact of Kanti Bhai and Saima, who run a travel agency. Besides, I realised that the group of Sarova hotels, where I stayed at Nairobi, was being run by a Singh. Not sure if he is a Sikh or any other Singh.
``Sir, hamara bhi thodasa chaltha hai idhar. You know, the government listens to us and respects our pleas. That is a good sign to be here. Like elsewhere, there is corruption here also. If you take care of one person, he will take care of all your problems. He will not allow other officers to harass you. I think, this is a great relief for anyone,’’ Patel points out.
There is truth in what Patel says. The streets of Nairobi are not as unsafe as portrayed. The ground reality is almost similar to any of the Indian cities. If you are caught in the wrong place, you will be robbed. If you hand over the valuables without protest, you are spared. If the culprit is a drug addict, that is your fate.
Let alone Kenya, even other countries in Africa are looking up. The civil wars are over in most of the East African countries like Rwanda and Burundi. Congo is holding peace talks with the rebels and it is also likely to resolve the problems within next couple of years. Barring Somalia, the situation is more or less stable and the countries are looking for building their nation. Though these countries are still under UN aid, they will be the countries, where big investments are going to come, especially in tapping natural resources. The economic rejuvenation seems to be in the offing in these countries – may be at the cost of ecology.
Back in Kenya, the Indian community is well settled. ``We have our own temples and nobody interferes in our affair. Yes, we do dominate the Parkland area. But, we are looked after well here. When the riot broke out during last December, special protection was extended to the Asian community settled here. None of the Asian was even hurt in the riots,’’ Patel informed.
Forty eight-year old Patel plans to spend his retired life at Mombasa, another place where Asians are in a sizeable number. Asians are also into farming in the coastal area of Kenya. Well, the third and fourth generations are taking over from their parents in Kenya and moving ahead.
09-12-2004
Nairobi
On the third day of my stay in David Livingstone resort, I received a dinner invitation from four Indian guests. Manager Shailesh Patel formally invited me, but I was apprehensive. When I realised that two of them had settled in Kenya, while other two were their guests, I made up my mind to join them.It was only after I met Harish Patel, I realised that the resort was being run by a Gujarati and the other person Vinod Hirani was running a tours and travel business at Nairobi. The two others were from Bhuj in Gujarat and they had just visited Patel.
Even Vinod’s was interesting story. He was born in Uganda and brought up there itself during the initial years of his child hood. Then they migrated to Kenya, but his father could not withstand the Nairobi weather. The family returned to Gujrat, but Vinod returned to Nairobi and started his travels business.
Harish is the second generation in Kenya, as his father had migrated to Nairobi way back in 1920. He also runs a property development business which is doing quite well. Born and brought up in Kenya, Patel has no intention to get back to India.
``I visit India once in three or four months. The people here are simple and humble. You just take them into confidence, they will do anything for you,’’ he says.
The Asians in Kenya are over 120-years old. They arrived in small boats through Mombasa. Mostly for laying railway lines in Africa. Among the 3,00,000 Asians here, there are nearly 80,000 Indians, who are into cross section of business. Construction is a big business, followed by hotels and tourism. But, the Asian community has made its mark in all sectors like health, retailing and what not.
Herin Bangera was my first Indian origin contact in Kenya. Though I had not seen him, he had given me the contact of Kanti Bhai and Saima, who run a travel agency. Besides, I realised that the group of Sarova hotels, where I stayed at Nairobi, was being run by a Singh. Not sure if he is a Sikh or any other Singh.
``Sir, hamara bhi thodasa chaltha hai idhar. You know, the government listens to us and respects our pleas. That is a good sign to be here. Like elsewhere, there is corruption here also. If you take care of one person, he will take care of all your problems. He will not allow other officers to harass you. I think, this is a great relief for anyone,’’ Patel points out.
There is truth in what Patel says. The streets of Nairobi are not as unsafe as portrayed. The ground reality is almost similar to any of the Indian cities. If you are caught in the wrong place, you will be robbed. If you hand over the valuables without protest, you are spared. If the culprit is a drug addict, that is your fate.
Let alone Kenya, even other countries in Africa are looking up. The civil wars are over in most of the East African countries like Rwanda and Burundi. Congo is holding peace talks with the rebels and it is also likely to resolve the problems within next couple of years. Barring Somalia, the situation is more or less stable and the countries are looking for building their nation. Though these countries are still under UN aid, they will be the countries, where big investments are going to come, especially in tapping natural resources. The economic rejuvenation seems to be in the offing in these countries – may be at the cost of ecology.
Back in Kenya, the Indian community is well settled. ``We have our own temples and nobody interferes in our affair. Yes, we do dominate the Parkland area. But, we are looked after well here. When the riot broke out during last December, special protection was extended to the Asian community settled here. None of the Asian was even hurt in the riots,’’ Patel informed.
Forty eight-year old Patel plans to spend his retired life at Mombasa, another place where Asians are in a sizeable number. Asians are also into farming in the coastal area of Kenya. Well, the third and fourth generations are taking over from their parents in Kenya and moving ahead.
09-12-2004
Nairobi
MAASAIS ON BANK OF MARA
WHEN THE GOVERNMENT HAS NO SAY, CONSERVATION WORKED
It is spread over 1510 sq kms and Maasais are the sole custodians here. The government hardly has any say and the local people manage everything, right from conservation to managing the touri
sm industry. That’s the speciality of this place.
Maasa means spotted and Mara is property. An aerial view gives an idea of the landscape – large tracts of Savanna grasslands with small patches of forest tracts. The people who live in this spotted areas are called Maasais and the place they live is their property, including river Mara.
The Maasais are basically warriors and have fought several wars, defending their homeland. The last one they fought was in 1989, when they got absolute right over managing their own provinces – that is Maasai Mara.
The entire land in Maasai Mara is owned by Maasais and the land is not sold. Even if the owner wants to sell his land, the buyer has to be a Maasai. Whoever wants to enter the Maasai Mara national park has to pay USD40 per day of stay. If he is a Kenyan national, it will be cost 17,000 Shillings, equivalent to USD20.
A group of Maasai youths keep a track on the people entering the national park and manage the collection of money. The money is distributed on the spot. While 50 percent of the park entry fee (from USD40) goes to Kayaki provinces, which constitutes half of the national park, the rest goes to the Maasai community. The collection boys get their due share and the rest of the money is distributed equally among the Maasai community.
When you get to know the antecedents of these Maasais and their lifestyle, you may think they are a bunch of duds, but not necessarily. The Maasais are intelligent and they know the business perfect. They are humble, friendly and polite. They take good care of the tourists, who are the major source of revenue for them. They want the tourists to return and send their friends and loved ones to Maasai Mara.
There are around 27 resorts in Maasai Mara, all run by outsiders. But the land is leased and almost all the employees, barring the top ones, are Maasais. The land owner earns the lease money in US dollars. There are seven air strips in Maasai Mara, which is also owned by Maasai land lords. For every landing, he will get USD 5. In a month, there is a minimum of 150 landings in each air strip.
“Maasais call the shots here and they know how to run their industry. They make the rules and control the flow of tourists as well. Nothing can move here without Maasai’s support,’’ says Shailesh.
The Maasai forest area is a total contrast to Indian forests, where government runs everything and the local people get nothing but false promises. While the Maasais are enthusiastic and enterprising, the people living in and around Indian forests looks a frustrated lot.
Maasais do not trade money among themselves. They trade cattle, which is an indicator of their wealth. A rich Maasai may hold up to 1000 cattle, which is grazed inside the national park along with other wild animals. Cattle are also the means of paying dowry. No outsider can graze his cattle in the Maasai Mara national park. This is another contrast when it comes to Indian forests.
As a tradition, Maasais do not eat wild meat. They eat cow, sheep and goat. This is the saving grace for the wildlife and they are able to live together. All the Maasais speak good English. There are five government schools and many private nursery schools inside the national park. The Maasai children go to these schools. The only graduation school is very expensive.
Some of the tourists, who learn about this system donate money or sponsor a student to go for graduation school. But, the Maasai Community Council decides as to which student should get the sponsorship.
All the above facts does not that everything is hunky dory in the Maasai world. A visit to the Maasai village will paint a different picture altogether. Three drums erected with a meter point makes a petrol pump. The village is built with zinc sheets and bars dominate the village, followed by petty shops. Nobody likes outsiders taking photographs, but they don’t mind them doing business here. The youths, who never studied are in and out of bar. They will get their share in the money collected as park entry fee from tourists. They just spend it.
How long will this continue? Already, the global recession is affecting the tourism industry and hard working boys like Moosa and company are a worried lot. In aug-Sep 2007, all the resorts in Maasai Mara were over booked. But the situat
ion this time around is very different.
The Presidential elections in Dec 2007, when the violence broke out in Kishubu and Nyanuki areas, it really hit the industry hard. Maasais also were hit as many were caught in the cross fire and got massacred. For five months, almost all the resorts in Maasai Mara had closed down.
When the business resumed, it was not as usual. Today, the tourist inflow is less than 20 percent of what it used to be. Even Moosa agrees that the number of tourists visiting was going down, and he, being a graduate, understands a bit of global recession. Others are yet to realise that the recession is hitting them slowly.
08-12-2008
Maasai Mara.
It is spread over 1510 sq kms and Maasais are the sole custodians here. The government hardly has any say and the local people manage everything, right from conservation to managing the touri
sm industry. That’s the speciality of this place.Maasa means spotted and Mara is property. An aerial view gives an idea of the landscape – large tracts of Savanna grasslands with small patches of forest tracts. The people who live in this spotted areas are called Maasais and the place they live is their property, including river Mara.
The Maasais are basically warriors and have fought several wars, defending their homeland. The last one they fought was in 1989, when they got absolute right over managing their own provinces – that is Maasai Mara.
The entire land in Maasai Mara is owned by Maasais and the land is not sold. Even if the owner wants to sell his land, the buyer has to be a Maasai. Whoever wants to enter the Maasai Mara national park has to pay USD40 per day of stay. If he is a Kenyan national, it will be cost 17,000 Shillings, equivalent to USD20.
A group of Maasai youths keep a track on the people entering the national park and manage the collection of money. The money is distributed on the spot. While 50 percent of the park entry fee (from USD40) goes to Kayaki provinces, which constitutes half of the national park, the rest goes to the Maasai community. The collection boys get their due share and the rest of the money is distributed equally among the Maasai community.
When you get to know the antecedents of these Maasais and their lifestyle, you may think they are a bunch of duds, but not necessarily. The Maasais are intelligent and they know the business perfect. They are humble, friendly and polite. They take good care of the tourists, who are the major source of revenue for them. They want the tourists to return and send their friends and loved ones to Maasai Mara.
There are around 27 resorts in Maasai Mara, all run by outsiders. But the land is leased and almost all the employees, barring the top ones, are Maasais. The land owner earns the lease money in US dollars. There are seven air strips in Maasai Mara, which is also owned by Maasai land lords. For every landing, he will get USD 5. In a month, there is a minimum of 150 landings in each air strip.
“Maasais call the shots here and they know how to run their industry. They make the rules and control the flow of tourists as well. Nothing can move here without Maasai’s support,’’ says Shailesh.
The Maasai forest area is a total contrast to Indian forests, where government runs everything and the local people get nothing but false promises. While the Maasais are enthusiastic and enterprising, the people living in and around Indian forests looks a frustrated lot.
Maasais do not trade money among themselves. They trade cattle, which is an indicator of their wealth. A rich Maasai may hold up to 1000 cattle, which is grazed inside the national park along with other wild animals. Cattle are also the means of paying dowry. No outsider can graze his cattle in the Maasai Mara national park. This is another contrast when it comes to Indian forests.
As a tradition, Maasais do not eat wild meat. They eat cow, sheep and goat. This is the saving grace for the wildlife and they are able to live together. All the Maasais speak good English. There are five government schools and many private nursery schools inside the national park. The Maasai children go to these schools. The only graduation school is very expensive.
Some of the tourists, who learn about this system donate money or sponsor a student to go for graduation school. But, the Maasai Community Council decides as to which student should get the sponsorship.
All the above facts does not that everything is hunky dory in the Maasai world. A visit to the Maasai village will paint a different picture altogether. Three drums erected with a meter point makes a petrol pump. The village is built with zinc sheets and bars dominate the village, followed by petty shops. Nobody likes outsiders taking photographs, but they don’t mind them doing business here. The youths, who never studied are in and out of bar. They will get their share in the money collected as park entry fee from tourists. They just spend it.
How long will this continue? Already, the global recession is affecting the tourism industry and hard working boys like Moosa and company are a worried lot. In aug-Sep 2007, all the resorts in Maasai Mara were over booked. But the situat
ion this time around is very different.The Presidential elections in Dec 2007, when the violence broke out in Kishubu and Nyanuki areas, it really hit the industry hard. Maasais also were hit as many were caught in the cross fire and got massacred. For five months, almost all the resorts in Maasai Mara had closed down.
When the business resumed, it was not as usual. Today, the tourist inflow is less than 20 percent of what it used to be. Even Moosa agrees that the number of tourists visiting was going down, and he, being a graduate, understands a bit of global recession. Others are yet to realise that the recession is hitting them slowly.
08-12-2008
Maasai Mara.
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