Sunday, January 11, 2009

LIKIPIA DISTRICT



DRIVING DOWN TO NYANUKI

The return journey from Massai Mara on a single-engine aircraft was not as exciting as the onward journey. It was a different experience. Drivers here do everything for you. - from loading the luggage to distributing mints and later flying the aircraft. The flight journey was over within 45 minutes. I decided to drive down to my next destination, Nyanuki, where I had to meet my friend Siva Sundaresan. He lived in a place called Mpala, doing research on wildlife.

My cab driver was named Prince, friendly chap. He found it strange that a tourist was sitting in the front seat. The drive was enjoyable. The outskirts of Nairobi looked very similar to Bangalore – resembling places like KR Puram or Banashankari Ring Roads. Trucks loaded with sand were waiting for customers and there are markets at the end of the roads.

Nyanuki is around 265 kms from Nairobi and the roads are neat and lovely. The two track roads reminded me of our Mysore-Bangalore highway. The only difference is that there are no road dividers. Trees and a grass carpet lining divide the road into two tracks. In some places, even maize in between the strip. Throughout the highway, the traffic police were visible, catching the highway traffic offenders.

Prince spoke to me about a whole range of subjects, including his Sikh friends in Nairobi. According to him, the Sikhs were very rude and they beat up people when they are angry. He also admitted that they were very good at heart.

During the conversation, I realised that there were several words that are commonly used both in Kenya and India. These words have their origin from Arabic language. Dawa means medicine, bandooka means guns, kalama means pen and thayara means ready and so on. I was surprised.

There were lot of surprises to tcach glimpse of during my journey. There were telephone poles along the road, but no wires fixed to it. Prince explained me that they people no more got telephone connection through wires. It is na old system,” he said.. The advent of mobile phones has simply thrown out the old system. Even the government run telephones are given through either the wireless in local loop (WLL) or mobile handsets. These run on CDMA technology and the entire land line system has been discarded.

On the way, I noticed some of the fruit shops unattended by people. There were charcoal, packed in plastic bags, left on the road side. Prince had a story to tell about these shops and charcoal sacks. “The area is inhabited by Kamba tribes. They are masters in witchcraft and no one dares to steal anything from them. If anybody tried to steal a fruit or a charcoal bag, they cannot move out of the place. The Kamba will kill them. If you want to take anything, you have to keep the money and take it. They don’t remove the fruits even during night,’’ Prince explained.

The story sounded interesting and Prince appeared to have been totally convinced about the witchcraft power of the Kambas. He also said that the Kambas burn people and sacrifice them to get witchcraft powers.
Further on our way, we passed through a hilly region, which, according to Prince, is full of highway robbers. It was not advisable to travel during the night, as the robbers were very cruel. This area is a small patch of 10 kilometres.

After this stretch, the beautiful view of Mt Kenya, the only snow covered mountain in Africa, drew my attention. It was a spectacuar sight and driving this stretch is the most enjoyable one. The pea, which stands tall at a height of 17,000 meters, is surrounded by Mt. Kenya National Park. I was not sure if I could get time to visit the area and have a closer look at the mountain.

As we approached Nyanuki, Prince warned me that we would be passing the equator line. I got my compass ready, and as we passed the line, it turned a full circle. The north and south were diametrically opposite across the line. My geography lessons as student came to my mind.

Ten minutes later, we reached Nyanuki. Though Nyanuki is one of the top 15 cities in Kenya, it is not bigger than any taluk head quarters in India. The main road has got all modern facilities like multi-national banks, offices, hospitals, pubs and internet parlours. But the localities right behind the main road reminds you of a village.

After a halt for five minutes, I met Siva and both us drove his Land Cruiser Discovery towards Mpala.

Nyanuki
09-12-2008

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