LAKE OF 3-IDIOTS

I DON’T CARE IF IT IS DALAI LAMA OR CHINA – JUST SAVE PONGONG

When I first read about Pongong lake, shot to fame after last scene of 3-idiots movie, I just told myself: Hell with it! One scene in the movie is going to kill the entire lake. I read that many restaurants had come up near that point, with 3-idiot theme.

However, we entered Pongong lake from entirely opposite direction – passing through Tibet border, now under China control. Five of us – Ramamurthy, Sachin, Chethan and Manoj were thrilled to see the lake from long distance.

Our driver Mothub said that around 20 per cent of the lake was with India and rest was in Tibet, under China control. The pristine lake sight was mesmerizing and we just drove along for over 30 minutes to actually reach the lake bed.

The first question after hitting the lake bed was where 3-idiots was shot? Motub was calm and said that we still had to cross at least two villages to reach the place where shooting took place. ``They shot in many places along two villages and I don’t know how much of it they have used it in the movie,’’ he said. We realized that he had not watched the movie.

As we passed Merek and Man villages, there was no visible activity. They were isolated small hamlets, looked untouched. The terrain was tough, but lake and either side view was unimaginable. As we approached Spangik village, I just said: ``What the f**k?’

The entire lake bed was on the verge of taking over and many tents had been already erected. Some were being still constructed and some concrete structure were also being built. In the far end, there were some small tents and it was doubtful that any tourists would stay there. As I picked up my camera, I saw a line of toilet comoddes being set up, which actually running right into the lake. I got so disgusted that I put my camera down.

As F&B words flowed fluently from our mouth, Mothub calmly explained the situation. ``Now the season is starting and most of the people are reserving their places to put up accommodation for tourists. Those small tents belong to labors, who come from other places. As the ice start melting, the water level in the lake swells. But these people are building shelters right on the lake.’’

``Earlier, very few people used to visit this lake as approach is very difficult. Only those adventurous used to come here. However, after 3-idiots, the number of tourists coming here has gone up. Every year, more and more people are setting up camps here,’’ he said.

Our enthusiasm with the lake had died down. We were expecting only a few 3-idot themed petty shops and restaurants. However, a mini-township was coming up on the lake bed, without any regulation. The sewage would sure be discharged to the lake itself. Silently, our eyes were searching for the place where last scene of 3-idiots was shot. One or two locations looked like that, but Mothub could not confirm it.

However, we were dumbstruck when reached Lukung village, last of the four villages on banks of Pongong Tso on Indian side. There were at least six restaurants under 3-idiots theme. There was also green adventure camp built behind the restaurants and we had decided to have lunch in this place. 

This was more than I could take. After ordering food, I took out my camera and started taking photographs of the establishments around the place. A local shop keeper said that after the movie was shot, there was a lot of `development'. Tourists were visiting and the local people were getting `business'.

I was not in a mood to buy that theory. Just then, argument broke out in a large group. Around 20 people had surrounded a jeep and were asking something in their local language. All I could understand was that they were labors and their wages had not been paid. The people in the jeep assured something and drove away, while the group stood their murmuring among themselves.

Ramamurthy went near the lake and said that this was the place shown in the last scene of 3-idiots. He also said that the scooter had been parked there. I went down and saw and board next to the scooter. It had Kareena Kapoor’s photograph and informed that anyone can take a photograph sitting on the scooter by paying Rs 50. Just shook my head and returned to the car.

As we moved out of the lake area toward Leh, a board mocked at me --- THINK CLEAN. A sarcastic smile moved on my lips, as I was predicting doom of the lake.

Brutal truth in India is talking about conservation and maintaining clean environment construed to be anti-development. At time, our attitude looks anarchic and all the governments support such activities in the name of development and upliftment of poor people.

Saving this lake appears to be impossible from Indian perspective. Since more than 70% of the lake is in Tibet, only two people can help. First, His Holiness Dalai Lama, fighting for free Tibet can take up the cause and prevail upon Indian government to bring in some regulation. Otherwise, China is in control of Tibet and rake up the issue of Indians polluting the lake in international forum.

I don’t care if it is Dalai Lama or China, as long as someone saves Pongong lake from 3-idiots onslaught.

Vinay Madhav